Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Self-Driving in Germany

Self-driving in Europe is becoming more and more popular as it gives travelers more flexibility and control over their time and itineraries that do not have to be limited by train connections or schedules. After last winter’s adventure in the Baltics, I decided to take a few days and drive through Germany.

I started in Frankfurt where I picked up my cute little Opel Meriva and headed down to Baden Baden before returning up to Heidelberg and then taking a couple of days to explore the Romantic Road.

I was on my own and was at first a little bit worried about doing this in January. The weather was miserable, of course, but the state of the roads, the signage and the wonderfully behaved German drivers made up for it. My Garmin, or as Germans call it, Navi, worked flawlessly and soon enough, I got used to the generous speed limits and zipped on the Audobahn like a female version of Schumacher, or as Germans call him, Schumi.

Some things to remember when driving in Germany:
Keep in the right lane, as the left lane is only used for passing.
Bring spare Euros for parking (free on Sundays).
Speed limits do exist, even on the Audobahn, especially when weather conditions worsen. You may encounter signs for 100km/h speed limit during rain or wind.
Make sure you know if your rental car runs on diesel or regular gas.
Brace yourself for excruciatingly high prices of gas.
Brace yourself for excruciatingly horrendous German radio (you will feel that you are driving back to the eighties!).
Have fun and be safe.

Friday, January 13, 2012

Picture of the Month - Thomas Mann House under snow

One of the best advantages of traveling in winter is that you will have a better chance of taking beautiful pictures devoid of crowds. This is Thomas Mann's house in the small village of Nida on the UNESCO protected Kuronian Spit near Klaipeda.

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Bolshoi in Moscow back in business

On October 28th of 2011, after six long years of renovations, the famous and historic Bolshoi Theater reopened in Moscow with a VIP event attended by Russian celebrities, politicians and ballerinas as well as President Dmitry Medvedev. The event was of such magnitude that everyone here in our office even gathered to watch it live on TV. I was traveling and missed the live broadcast. No, unfortunately I didn’t make it to the gala. However, I was in Moscow just a few days after the opening, and had the very exciting chance to do a Backstage Tour of the renovated Theater.


My first glance at the main hall took my breath away. It looks absolutely divine with tons of red fabric and gold, complemented by a sumptuous chandelier - the product of a renovation that has cost over half a billion dollars. We also had a chance to see some of the other areas of the Theater, as well as learning a bit about its history and the renovations. But one of my favorite parts of the tour was hopping into the Tsar’s Box and taking a seat– it truly makes you feel like royalty, even if just for a few seconds. And what a view!


These beautiful pictures were taken by the photographer David Leventi who went to Moscow just to photograph the Bolshoi and was there the evening before our visit.
If you travel to Russia, Exeter can arrange the Backstage Tour of the Bolshoi – a fantastic experience one cannot help but brag about.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Braving the Balkans


The Balkan region is not usually considered a destination for adventure travel but it actually offers a huge variety of landscapes and wildlife which are widely unknown to foreign visitors. The countryside is dotted with small picturesque villages, monasteries, ruined medieval castles, and family-run taverns and wineries which could add cultural and historical dimensions to everyone’s outdoor pursuits.

Bulgaria’s mountain resorts offer excellent skiing and snow-shoeing in the winter and through the rest of the year (when hotel rates are significantly lower) become bases for hiking and mountain-biking. The Rila, Pirin, Rhodope, and Balkan Mountains have miles of marked trails through spectacular scenery of gushing streams, highland meadows, mountain lakes, and panoramic vistas. Many of these mountain treks can be easily accessed from the capital city of Sofia and to also incorporate visits to historic and cultural sights like the famous Rila Monastery, the Belogradchik Fortress, the Ivanovo Rock Monasteries, and towns and villages with well-preserved traditional architecture. In the spring and early summer, some of the rivers also offer opportunities for rafting.

A recent project funded by the EU has helped developing a biking route along the Danube’s southern bank which will allow travelers to cycle its entire length from the Iron Gates to the Danube Delta and visit en route sites like the Baba Vida Fortress in Vidin, the Belogradchik Rocks and Fortress, the Ivanovo Rock Churches, and the UNESCO-protected Srebarna Lake.

The unspoiled Romanian countryside also offers some great hiking with marked trails to suit all fitness levels. The Fagaras Mountains, which are part of the famous Carpathians, are located in the southern Transylvania region thus allowing the combination of outdoor pursuits with the cultural exploration of the former Saxon towns of Brasov, Sibiu, and Sighisoara with their well-preserved walled Old Towns and the UNESCO-protected fortified churches of Biertan or Prejmer. Further north, the more remote and rural areas of Maramures and Bucovina also offer some scenic hikes through hills dotted with beautiful painted monasteries and wooden churches. The extensive wetlands of the Danube Delta are of course a great destination for birdwatchers, especially during the periods of spring and autumn migration when it becomes a true paradise teeming with a variety of bird species including herons, pelicans, egrets, and geese.

Further west, Bosnia-Herzegovina is a tiny country with a diverse landscape of mountain peaks, old forests, alpine villages, and deep river canyons. The country is home to the Dinaric Alps where hiking and mountaineering traditions stretch back to the times of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and which offer an array of well-maintained treks and walks. The primeval forests of the Sutjeska National Park house a large population of brown bear, dear, and chamois while the Bjelasnica Mountain north of the capital city of Sarajevo (which hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics) is sprinkled with small highland villages where centuries-old traditions and customs can still be found. The mountains around Sarajevo offer some magnificent hiking along deep canyons and through forests and meadows and many of alpine trails which have for centuries connected the highland communities are suitable for mountain-biking.


Bosnia-Herzegovina’s rivers rank among the best in Europe for white-water rafting and local outfitters offer half- or full-day tours for novice and experienced rafters alike. The Neretva and Tara Rivers boast some deep canyons with breathtaking views and crystal-clear water which has made them some of the best destinations for rafting and kayaking in Europe. The limestone canyon walls are covered with pines, elm, and linden trees and one can see the occasional waterfall spill-out into the river from the vertical rock. Because of the country’s small size, most of the outdoor adventure tours can be easily arranged as day-trips from Sarajevo or Mostar and combined with cultural sightseeing as well.

Monday, November 28, 2011

Russian Winter Holidays




Ah….winter holidays in Russia! Where to begin? Russians celebrate two Christmases, two New Years and the whole country is off for three weeks to make sure it’s done properly!

Although Catholic Christmas is not an official holiday, winter holiday celebrations in Russia start on December 24. After that, everyone gets a winter vacation starting from December 27 until January 14.

New Year is the biggest and the most popular holiday for the Russian people. As a native Russian, I always wait with anticipation for December to come around. On December 31, I put up a New Year tree, decorate my house and cook while watching old Russian movies and fairy tales. Later in the evening on New Year’s Eve my family and I gather around the table and enjoy a few snacks and drinks to properly “say good bye to the Old Year”. Five minutes before the midnight, everyone is glued to TV as the Russian President addresses the nation and wishes everyone a prosperous New Year. At midnight, we open a bottle of champagne, kiss and everyone secretly sneaks presents for the others under the New Year tree! Celebrations continue all night as we watch shows on TV, eat and drink champagne.

The next winter holiday in line is Russian Christmas –January 7. The celebration of this holiday in Russia is very low key, since it is a relatively new. Some stay home, some go out, but all try to eat a goose and sweet rice with walnuts and raisins!

Russians have a second opportunity to celebrate the New Year, which, according to the old Orthodox calendar falls on January 14. This “Old New Year” (Starui Novui God) is spent with family and is generally quieter than the New Year celebrated on January 1st. The tradition during the Old New Year celebrations is to write your wishes on a piece of paper, burn it, throw the ashes in the glass of champagne and drink it at midnight. It is very important not to tell anyone what you wished for to make sure it comes true!

Friday, November 4, 2011

Picture of the Month - unplanned perfection


With all the new gadgets, it is so easy these days to come back from your trips with thousands of pictures and never see them again. We travel with our smart phones, tablets and cameras and for most of us, it means that we are snapping pictures with all of them, depending on what we are holding at the precise moment when we pass something memorable or something memorable passes us. You would think that this makes things easier, but it actually means that you have to go through more steps to consolidate your memories into one place. That is what I was recently doing and I came across a great picture I forgot I took with my phone in Cappadocia, Turkey.  I did not even realize how perfect this picture was until finding it now. I had no idea that as I was snapping the beautiful landscape of Pigeon Valley, a pigeon flew right inside the frame. Here you have it, a pigeon in the Pigeon Valley!

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Shop Locally... Great Food Markets in Russia and Ukraine

Caviar, Caviar, Caviar
People have all kinds of rituals when traveling. Some always buy the same souvenir in every country they visit, let’s say an espresso cup or an edition of Saint Exupéry’s  Little Prince in the local language, some like to take a picture of themselves in the same funny pose in front of every major monument.

Between museums, galleries or palaces, I try to squeeze in a local market or a grocery store. Not just to run in to buy a quick snack, but for a real tour. I guess everyone visits a local market or a bazaar, but there is something different about a grocery store and I mean a regular one not a fancy gourmet shop for tourists. Seeing people thinking about what they will cook for dinner, looking for their choice of shampoo or discussing different cuts of meat with the butcher is just as fascinating as strolling through a museum, albeit slightly voyeuristic. You can find local grocery stores on every corner in Moscow or St. Petersburg and I highly recommend peaking in, if only for the fun of seeing products you know (like M&M's or a Coca Cola) in an unfamiliar wrapping with their names spelled out in Cyrillic.


If you are looking to visit the best farmer markets, there are some excellent ones in Eastern Europe as well. Surprisingly, they feel exotic in comparison to the US markets, mainly due to the ubiquitous caviar that is displayed in mind-boggling abundance. They also look like museums of anything pickled as there is simply nothing that Russians could not pickle and the colorful jars and bottles make for a wonderful décor of the market stalls. In Moscow, the best people watching, snacking and shopping for last minute gifts for your foodie friends is to be had at the Eliseevsky Gourmet Store on the Tverskaya Street that is convenient to anyone staying in the center. The best farmers market, Danilovskiy, is found outside of the city, but the journey is well worth it. The variety of produce is shocking for anyone whose mind is stuck in the Cold War stereotypes and imagines Russians still struggling to find food in empty grocery stores. In St. Petersburg, the best market is the Kuznechnyi Market, again offering a wide array of Russian food and produce and centrally located. My most recent visit to Eastern Europe took me to Kiev, the highlight of which was definitely a stroll through the Besarabsky Market right on the city’s main avenue, the Kreschatyk. The sellers don’t speak much English as these markets really cater to the locals, but they are eager to show you and let you taste their products and any attempt by you to speak their language is extremely appreciated.

If your travels take you to Russia and Ukraine, find the time to visit these markets to get the best taste of local life.