November 17, Prague

On this day, twenty years ago, my sister, three aunts and I were supposed to deliver a birthday cake for my cousin who was born on November 17 - a day that commemorates the tragic death of Jan Opletal, a student killed by the Nazis during the occupation and that has since become The International Day of Students. It was 1989 and people, mainly students, took to the streets turning the celebration of the Students' Day into a protest against the communist regime that was still desperately holding on to the power.

My aunts and I decided that the birthday party would have to wait a bit since we wanted to support the protesters. I was barely a teenager then and felt huge pride for being able to join the demonstration. It was the first time I really looked at people around me and felt a common bond. Before that no one on the streets of Prague would look into your eyes, nobody would engage in a conversation with a stranger. Now we were screaming in unison and demanded freedom. The feeling of change about to come was palpable, for me there was no question about it - it was in the smiles and the excitement of people around me. Some of the leaders of the demonstration decided to move from Vysehrad down to the center towards Narodni Avenue. A few minutes later, there were rumors of police and militia blocking the streets to contain the protestors. It was then that my aunts made the call to leave and finally deliver the now slightly damaged cake.

Later that evening, we found out from my grandmother who had stayed longer that people were brutally beaten as the orders came to stop the demonstration at all cost. My grandmother was saved by a stranger who unlocked the entrance door to an apartment building and took peoplein. I felt slightly embarrassed that I was saved by a cake, but I guess I should not complain. The events of that day led to more protests and eventually the end of the Communist rule in Czechoslovakia.

Today, I remember November 17 along with the whole country and I am grateful that it is only history now. People are free to celebrate or protest, voice their opinion and travel whenever and wherever they like. They are free to vote and free to be unsatisfied with the government. They are even free to scream at the current president as one of the student leaders did yesterday. And that is something to celebrate!

Oh, and happy birthday, cousin!

Winter Wonderland

A Russian winter is truly spectacular (see my last posting) and this Winter Wonderland extends far from the main cities of Moscow and St. Petersburg and the countryside surrounding them. To really experience a Russian winter, you need to venture into the vast wilderness that is Siberia and beyond.

As you set out east from Moscow, there continue to be pockets of civilization – Kazan the capital of Tartarstan with its own Kremlin (not as strong and powerful as Moscow’s but every bit as historical and a UNESCO World Heritage site). Here the snow glistens on the minarets of a mosque sitting side by side with an onion domed church, elegant icicles dangling from the rooflines of both without distinction.

A little further east is the European / Asia divide, the spot where two great continents meet. Locals dressed in somewhat hokey costumes and sporting megaphones to be sure you can hear them, recreate the Russian tradition of welcoming you with bread and salt. Of course a steaming hot cup of chocolate or warming broth would seem to be more appropriate in the rapidly tumbling temperatures and crisp white snow covering the ground but bread and salt it is and bread and salt it will always be.

The town closest to this geographical celebration is Yekaterinburg, the third largest city in Russia and best known for being the location where the last Tsar was executed by the Bolsheviks in 1918. (A church marks the spot).

A sense of modernity continues in Novosibirsk but winter is obviously harsher here. Perhaps it is the fact that Novosibirsk is a relatively modern city and lacks the romanticism of what has gone before. In front of the largest opera house in the world, ice hangs from the statue of Lenin. Can it possibly get any colder!

Yes it can…..heading east from Novosibirsk is the great emptiness of fame – Siberia! Miles and miles (hundreds and thousands of miles) of emptiness are stunningly beautiful and appallingly cold. From time to time you come across a lone wooden house or small community, snow drifts reaching towards the roof, smoke from a raw fire snaking from chimneys and a horse standing in snow up to its hocks. Hallmark can only dream of such scenes gracing the front of their winter season cards.

You might think that this bitter cold would cause people to curl up and hibernate for five months but exactly the opposite. Yes, the days are short but instead of the dreary wet slushy winters so many urbanites face year after year, in this part of the world winter comes with lots of sunshine between snow showers, the snow remains crisp and clean, trees are permanently clad in white and the locals love to get their cross country skis out or strap a troika to the back of their horses and get out and enjoy this magnificent beauty.

Lake Baikal, one of the world’s natural phenomena (and the deepest lake in the world) actually freezes over in the depth of winter. It takes a little getting used to, being able to safely walk far out from the shore but if it can handle the weight of a train (before the rail track that circumvents the lake was built, temporary tracks were laid across the lake in winter for a short cut), it can certainly handle the weight of an average human being!

The question of course is how to do all of this in reasonable comfort. Mastering the roads on a self-drive expedition is not advisable and therefore out of the question. You can independently travel by rail from point to point, stopping off for a day or two to meet the locals, braving bitingly cold wind swept rail platforms and pouring over timetables waiting for the next local train service to points onward sharing toilets on board and improving your Russian as food carts pass by or you try to navigate the Russian only menu in the restaurant car (cash only, please). Or you can use the same rail tracks and journey on board the private Golden Eagle Trans Siberian Express with heated en-suite bathrooms in every cabin, lounge and bar car to relax and view that stunning countryside and three good meals a day prepared on board and served in the well appointed dining cars, accompanied by wines - all included.

The choice, of course, is yours and each has their own budget but which ever way you do this trip, just be sure to do it – the magnificence of a true Russian winter will stay with you for ever.

Maltese Chapel in St. Petersburg

When I travel, I absolutely love experiences that are a little off the beaten track. My favorites are the ones that are closed to the public – it does not get much more exclusive and unique than that. On my last trip to Russia, I was able to experience a handful of these. One of the most extraordinary ones was a visit to the Maltese Chapel.

The Maltese Chapel is part of the Vorontsov Palace, built in the 18th century. The Palace houses Russia’s most important military school, the Suvorov Military Academy. Our tour was led personally by the chaplain of the Academy’s church, Father Alexander.

The beauty of this chapel made me feel super special for being in such an exclusive place. We even got to touch ancient books that would normally be protected by a glass screen or guards making sure you do not get too close. And since the cadets were on summer break, we also got to see the part of the Military Academy where they sleep, and even their little gym!

But for me personally, the best part was knowing that we helped support the Children’s Hospice charity, founded by Father Alexander in 2003. The charity provides relief for terminally ill children and their parents, along with making the children’s last wishes come true. The visit to the Academy may be arranged through Exeter for a set donation that goes entirely to the Children’s Hospice.

It is great to know that having fun actually made a difference this time around!

Paris of Siberia?

I had the pleasure of traveling on the Golden Eagle train on the Trans-Siberian Express Railway in September. I joined the trip in the town of Irkutsk. After arriving from Moscow at 5:00 in the morning to freezing temperatures, I had a few hours to freshen up (and bundle up), before the train arrived.

Irkutsk is known as the “Paris of Siberia”. Today, this is clearly an overstatement, but in the late 19th century, after the Decembrist revolt, the city became a forced home to the many exiled intellectuals and prominent figures and grew into a cultural center of Siberia.

We started our day by visiting a few of the local churches there as well as the Gagarin Embankment. After lunch we visited the Alexander III monument commemorating the construction of the Trans-Siberian railway and explored some of the wooden houses and architecture around Irkutsk. We were given some time to wander around the market hall before ending our day at the mansion of Decembrist Prince Volkonsky which concluded with a private concert there. It was a nice way to end the first day of this amazing journey.

I must say though, of all the cities and towns that I visited on the trek back to Moscow, Irkutsk was my least favorite. I’m glad I went because I can now say “I’ve been to Irkutsk” but it’s a place that’s not high on my places to return list.

At the Hanging Coffee – Great Pub in Prague

The restaurant scene in Prague has always been slightly irritating to me. It is only recently that it has stabilized and you will find the same restaurants exactly where you left them couple years ago. One of my favorite restaurants in Prague and a true constant in the city, is the Café and Pub At the Hanging Coffee in the Castle District. I loved it as a student and I love it now. It has always stayed true to what it is supposed to be – a great neighborhood pub with wonderful beer and food.

The story behind the name tells you how laid back this place is: A person eats his or her lunch, orders a coffee and then pays his bill adding one more coffee to it – leaving it “hanging”. A broke person can come in and ask: is there a coffee hanging here? If there is, he gets to drink it for free.

The restaurant offers authentic, no-nonsense Czech cuisine. If you are not hungry enough for half duck with cherry sauce, red cabbage and dumplings, you can sip your beer and munch on a herring or pickled cheese. Try to leave some room for dessert, their fruit dumplings are delicious.

So now you know where to get a cup of coffee if you lose your wallet in Prague!