Russia and Eastern Europe Travel Report

Self-Driving in Germany

2012-01-31T11:30:00.001-05:00

Self-driving in Europe is becoming more and more popular as it gives travelers more flexibility and control over their time and itineraries that do not have to be limited by train connections or schedules. After last winter’s adventure in the Baltics, I decided to take a few days and drive through Germany.

I started in Frankfurt where I picked up my cute little Opel Meriva and headed down to Baden Baden before returning up to Heidelberg and then taking a couple of days to explore the Romantic Road.

I was on my own and was at first a little bit worried about doing this in January. The weather was miserable, of course, but the state of the roads, the signage and the wonderfully behaved German drivers made up for it. My Garmin, or as Germans call it, Navi, worked flawlessly and soon enough, I got used to the generous speed limits and zipped on the Audobahn like a female version of Schumacher, or as Germans call him, Schumi.

Some things to remember when driving in Germany:
Keep in the right lane, as the left lane is only used for passing.
Bring spare Euros for parking (free on Sundays).
Speed limits do exist, even on the Audobahn, especially when weather conditions worsen. You may encounter signs for 100km/h speed limit during rain or wind.
Make sure you know if your rental car runs on diesel or regular gas.
Brace yourself for excruciatingly high prices of gas.
Brace yourself for excruciatingly horrendous German radio (you will feel that you are driving back to the eighties!).
Have fun and be safe.

Picture of the Month - Thomas Mann House under snow

2012-01-13T13:01:00.000-05:00

One of the best advantages of traveling in winter is that you will have a better chance of taking beautiful pictures devoid of crowds. This is Thomas Mann's house in the small village of Nida on the UNESCO protected Kuronian Spit near Klaipeda.

Bolshoi in Moscow back in business

2011-12-27T12:46:00.014-05:00

On October 28th of 2011, after six long years of renovations, the famous and historic Bolshoi Theater reopened in Moscow with a VIP event attended by Russian celebrities, politicians and ballerinas as well as President Dmitry Medvedev. The event was of such magnitude that everyone here in our office even gathered to watch it live on TV. I was traveling and missed the live broadcast. No, unfortunately I didn’t make it to the gala. However, I was in Moscow just a few days after the opening, and had the very exciting chance to do a Backstage Tour of the renovated Theater.

My first glance at the main hall took my breath away. It looks absolutely divine with tons of red fabric and gold, complemented by a sumptuous chandelier - the product of a renovation that has cost over half a billion dollars. We also had a chance to see some of the other areas of the Theater, as well as learning a bit about its history and the renovations. But one of my favorite parts of the tour was hopping into the Tsar’s Box and taking a seat– it truly makes you feel like royalty, even if just for a few seconds. And what a view!

These beautiful pictures were taken by the photographer David Leventi who went to Moscow just to photograph the Bolshoi and was there the evening before our visit.
If you travel to Russia, Exeter can arrange the Backstage Tour of the Bolshoi – a fantastic experience one cannot help but brag about.

Braving the Balkans

2011-12-08T09:57:00.000-05:00

The Balkan region is not usually considered a destination for adventure travel but it actually offers a huge variety of landscapes and wildlife which are widely unknown to foreign visitors. The countryside is dotted with small picturesque villages, monasteries, ruined medieval castles, and family-run taverns and wineries which could add cultural and historical dimensions to everyone’s outdoor pursuits.

Bulgaria’s mountain resorts offer excellent skiing and snow-shoeing in the winter and through the rest of the year (when hotel rates are significantly lower) become bases for hiking and mountain-biking. The Rila, Pirin, Rhodope, and Balkan Mountains have miles of marked trails through spectacular scenery of gushing streams, highland meadows, mountain lakes, and panoramic vistas. Many of these mountain treks can be easily accessed from the capital city of Sofia and to also incorporate visits to historic and cultural sights like the famous Rila Monastery, the Belogradchik Fortress, the Ivanovo Rock Monasteries, and towns and villages with well-preserved traditional architecture. In the spring and early summer, some of the rivers also offer opportunities for rafting.

A recent project funded by the EU has helped developing a biking route along the Danube’s southern bank which will allow travelers to cycle its entire length from the Iron Gates to the Danube Delta and visit en route sites like the Baba Vida Fortress in Vidin, the Belogradchik Rocks and Fortress, the Ivanovo Rock Churches, and the UNESCO-protected Srebarna Lake.

The unspoiled Romanian countryside also offers some great hiking with marked trails to suit all fitness levels. The Fagaras Mountains, which are part of the famous Carpathians, are located in the southern Transylvania region thus allowing the combination of outdoor pursuits with the cultural exploration of the former Saxon towns of Brasov, Sibiu, and Sighisoara with their well-preserved walled Old Towns and the UNESCO-protected fortified churches of Biertan or Prejmer. Further north, the more remote and rural areas of Maramures and Bucovina also offer some scenic hikes through hills dotted with beautiful painted monasteries and wooden churches. The extensive wetlands of the Danube Delta are of course a great destination for birdwatchers, especially during the periods of spring and autumn migration when it becomes a true paradise teeming with a variety of bird species including herons, pelicans, egrets, and geese.

Further west, Bosnia-Herzegovina is a tiny country with a diverse landscape of mountain peaks, old forests, alpine villages, and deep river canyons. The country is home to the Dinaric Alps where hiking and mountaineering traditions stretch back to the times of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and which offer an array of well-maintained treks and walks. The primeval forests of the Sutjeska National Park house a large population of brown bear, dear, and chamois while the Bjelasnica Mountain north of the capital city of Sarajevo (which hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics) is sprinkled with small highland villages where centuries-old traditions and customs can still be found. The mountains around Sarajevo offer some magnificent hiking along deep canyons and through forests and meadows and many of alpine trails which have for centuries connected the highland communities are suitable for mountain-biking.

Bosnia-Herzegovina’s rivers rank among the best in Europe for white-water rafting and local outfitters offer half- or full-day tours for novice and experienced rafters alike. The Neretva and Tara Rivers boast some deep canyons with breathtaking views and crystal-clear water which has made them some of the best destinations for rafting and kayaking in Europe. The limestone canyon walls are covered with pines, elm, and linden trees and one can see the occasional waterfall spill-out into the river from the vertical rock. Because of the country’s small size, most of the outdoor adventure tours can be easily arranged as day-trips from Sarajevo or Mostar and combined with cultural sightseeing as well.

Russian Winter Holidays

2011-11-28T10:00:00.000-05:00

Ah….winter holidays in Russia! Where to begin? Russians celebrate two Christmases, two New Years and the whole country is off for three weeks to make sure it’s done properly!

Although Catholic Christmas is not an official holiday, winter holiday celebrations in Russia start on December 24. After that, everyone gets a winter vacation starting from December 27 until January 14.

New Year is the biggest and the most popular holiday for the Russian people. As a native Russian, I always wait with anticipation for December to come around. On December 31, I put up a New Year tree, decorate my house and cook while watching old Russian movies and fairy tales. Later in the evening on New Year’s Eve my family and I gather around the table and enjoy a few snacks and drinks to properly “say good bye to the Old Year”. Five minutes before the midnight, everyone is glued to TV as the Russian President addresses the nation and wishes everyone a prosperous New Year. At midnight, we open a bottle of champagne, kiss and everyone secretly sneaks presents for the others under the New Year tree! Celebrations continue all night as we watch shows on TV, eat and drink champagne.

The next winter holiday in line is Russian Christmas –January 7. The celebration of this holiday in Russia is very low key, since it is a relatively new. Some stay home, some go out, but all try to eat a goose and sweet rice with walnuts and raisins!

Russians have a second opportunity to celebrate the New Year, which, according to the old Orthodox calendar falls on January 14. This “Old New Year” (Starui Novui God) is spent with family and is generally quieter than the New Year celebrated on January 1st. The tradition during the Old New Year celebrations is to write your wishes on a piece of paper, burn it, throw the ashes in the glass of champagne and drink it at midnight. It is very important not to tell anyone what you wished for to make sure it comes true!

Picture of the Month - unplanned perfection

2011-11-04T12:08:00.002-04:00

With all the new gadgets, it is so easy these days to comeback from your trips with thousands of pictures and never see them again. Wetravel with our smart phones, tablets and cameras and for most of us, it means thatwe are snapping pictures with all of them, depending on what we are holding atthe precise moment when we pass something memorable or something memorablepasses us. You would think that this makes things easier, but it actually meansthat you have to go through more steps to consolidate your memories into one place.That is what I was recently doing and I came across a great picture I forgot Itook with my phone in Cappadocia, Turkey. I did not even realize how perfect thispicture was until finding it now. I had no idea that as I was snapping thebeautiful landscape of Pigeon Valley, a pigeon flew right inside the frame.Here you have it, a pigeon in the Pigeon Valley!

Shop Locally... Great Food Markets in Russia and Ukraine

2011-10-08T14:36:00.000-04:00

Caviar, Caviar, Caviar

People have all kinds of rituals when traveling. Some always buy the same souvenir in every country they visit, let’s say an espresso cup or an edition of Saint Exupéry’s Little Prince in the local language, some like to take a picture of themselves in the same funny pose in front of every major monument.

Between museums, galleries or palaces, I try to squeeze in a local market or a grocery store. Not just to run in to buy a quick snack, but for a real tour. I guess everyone visits a local market or a bazaar, but there is something different about a grocery store and I mean a regular one not a fancy gourmet shop for tourists. Seeing people thinking about what they will cook for dinner, looking for their choice of shampoo or discussing different cuts of meat with the butcher is just as fascinating as strolling through a museum, albeit slightly voyeuristic. You can find local grocery stores on every corner in Moscow or St. Petersburg and I highly recommend peaking in, if only for the fun of seeing products you know (like M&M's or a Coca Cola) in an unfamiliar wrapping with their names spelled out in Cyrillic.

If you are looking to visit the best farmer markets, there are some excellent ones in Eastern Europe as well. Surprisingly, they feel exotic in comparison to the US markets, mainly due to the ubiquitous caviar that is displayed in mind-boggling abundance. They also look like museums of anything pickled as there is simply nothing that Russians could not pickle and the colorful jars and bottles make for a wonderful décor of the market stalls. In Moscow, the best people watching, snacking and shopping for last minute gifts for your foodie friends is to be had at the Eliseevsky Gourmet Store on the Tverskaya Street that is convenient to anyone staying in the center. The best farmers market, Danilovskiy, is found outside of the city, but the journey is well worth it. The variety of produce is shocking for anyone whose mind is stuck in the Cold War stereotypes and imagines Russians still struggling to find food in empty grocery stores. In St. Petersburg, the best market is the Kuznechnyi Market, again offering a wide array of Russian food and produce and centrally located. My most recent visit to Eastern Europe took me to Kiev, the highlight of which was definitely a stroll through the Besarabsky Market right on the city’s main avenue, the Kreschatyk. The sellers don’t speak much English as these markets really cater to the locals, but they are eager to show you and let you taste their products and any attempt by you to speak their language is extremely appreciated.

If your travels take you to Russia and Ukraine, find the time to visit these markets to get the best taste of local life.

Visit the New Jewish Museum in Moscow… that is if you can find it!

2011-09-13T14:56:00.002-04:00

We are very excited to announce that a new Jewish History Museum was open in Moscow in May 2011. Thanks to the effort of a few individuals, Russians and foreign tourists will finally have the opportunity to learn about the history of Jews in Russia, about their religious life and customs. The small private museum was opened by Sergey Ustinov, the vice-president of the Russian Jewish Community and the museum board includes Boris Haimovich, Doctor of Fine Arts (The Hebrew University of Jerusalem), Gregory Kazovsky - Israeli art critic and an expert on Jewish avant-garde, Maria Kaspina - linguist, ethnographer and Senior Lecturer of the Center for Biblical and Jewish Studies RGGU. The collection includes items from daily life, books and examples of synagogal art from different regions of Russia.

The Museum is open only by appointment, Monday through Friday, 12:00-6:00PM. No outside sign marks its address, so a knowledgeable guide is essential.

Poland’s Village life beyond picturesque

2011-04-14T14:57:00.000-04:00

Warsaw, Krakow, Gdansk and possibly Wroclaw are Poland’smost popular destinations. These sophisticated cities with wonderful new museums havea lot to offer, but if you have time it is a good idea to add a few days toyour trip to explore the countryside. On our last trip, my colleagues and I didjust that and had the opportunity to explore the Malopolskie region (LesserPoland) around Krakow. Besides Tarnow, we visited Zalipie, a small charmingvillage famous for its painted houses. The custom of painting the inside andoutside of the houses was started at the end of the 19^th centurywhen the women tried to cover the walls stained by the furnaces and chimneys. Theresult is a village that seems to jump out of a picture book, the houses,mills, wells and pretty much every building are decorated with lovely patternsof bright flowers . The tradition was preserved to this day and the villagebuilt a small cultural center called Dom Malarek (House of women painters) whereguests can try their own artistic talents and paint on lovely wooden utensils. Or,like me, you can watch your colleagues exert themselves artistically and insteadeat homemade pastry prepared by the gracious hosts.

Dom Malarek is open Monday through Friday 8:00AM-4:00PM,Saturday and Sunday 12:00-6:00PM.

The village is there for you to stroll around 365 days ayear.

Chernobyl Museum - Unexpected highlight of Kiev

2011-03-15T17:11:00.003-04:00

Before our staff trip to Ukraine, I felt a bit ambivalent about including the Chernobyl Museum into our agenda. I did not know how such a complex and politicized tragedy can be encompassed into an institution. To my surprise, this museum ended up being a highlight of our visit to Kiev. The exhibition manages to be detailed and informative but also deeply touching at the same time. The obvious culprit of Chernobyl’s demise was human hubris and the former regime that so severely mishandled the catastrophe, but while being very honest about it, the exhibition is not interested in placing the blame. Its focus is mainly on the human aspect of the disaster.

The Nuclear Plant is not presented as a monster, far from it, the people that worked there, from the engineers to the maintenance staff, drew enormous pride from being part of what was considered one of the biggest achievements of the Soviet science and industry. One of the most surprising moments of the exhibition was a short movie dedicated to the closing of the remaining reactors years after the disaster showing engineers literally crying over the plant’s end. Another short movie shows soldiers promised to be released from the rest of their two year military service in exchange for two minutes of clearing the radioactive debris directly on the site of the explosion. My heart was breaking for these young men dressed in ridiculously inadequate protective gear who were so tragically oblivious to the fact that these two minutes would most probably cost them years and years of healthy life.

Besides concrete information, the Museum also gives space to artists to approach the disaster from a more internal and if at all possible even more emotional perspective. The result is a complex experience that will stay with you for a very long time.

The Museum is open Monday through Friday, 10:00AM – 6:00PM, Saturday 10:00AM – 5:00PM.

Hot-Air Ballooning in Cappadocia

2011-02-02T10:52:00.000-05:00

Thousands of years ago when the volcanoes around the heart of Anatolia started erupting frequently, their ash, lava and basalt formed the soft rocks which are foundation of today’s landscape of the area. The easiness of carving into those rocks had people creating homes in rock pillars and under the ground. These homes, churches and whole underground cities now form what we know as Cappadocia.

I must say that a trip to Turkey would never be complete without a visit to Cappadocia. The first time you see the breathtaking scenery will be almost overwhelming. The view from the Pigeon Valley gives you a great introduction on what to expect. And for the ultimate immersion, stay at a hotel with cave rooms!

One of the absolute musts in the area is a hot-air balloon ride. Being afraid of heights, I will confess I was extremely scared of hopping in the balloon after seeing so many of them flying so far up the sky that you cannot even see the people in them. However, this experience ended up among my favorites in Turkey! You arrive on location at the crack of dawn and see the balloons actually being inflated. The baskets can hold up to 24 people, but Exeter can also arrange a private ride – it is so romantic!! The take off was so smooth I barely realized we were off the ground, and the whole journey (approximately 45-minutes) was “wow” after “wow”.

I am a picture fanatic (just ask my colleagues!) and the view from up there is so incredible that at one point I had to force myself to stop obsessing about trying to record every moment to simply enjoy the ride. It was fantastic.

And while there, be sure not to miss one of the biggest sights of Cappadocia: the Göreme Open-Air Museum. An absolute must-see, this complex is composed of houses, churches and monasteries that were carved into the soft rocks by the people of Göreme. With its beautiful frescoes and unique characteristics, the museum became a member of UNESCO World Heritage List in 1984. An unbelievable sight for a stroll after seeing all the beauty from the sky!

10 Tips for Taking the Kids to Moscow

2011-01-18T17:43:00.007-05:00

I just returned from a trip to Moscow with my family, including a 4-year old and a 8-year old and wanted to share some tips on what to do and to avoid when traveling to this city with children.

1. The city is gorgeous in the winter and especially around New Year’s – all covered in snow and beautifully illuminated. A large open-air ice skating rink opens right in Red Square in front of the GUM department store, generally from the end of November to the beginning of March, and is very popular with children and adults alike. Just adjacent to the Kremlin walls, the Alexander Park with its sculptures of characters from Russian fairy tales is also worth a visit.

2. Moscow’s new Sheremetievo terminal has a small playroom where children can play while you are waiting for your flight. You only need to show your boarding pass.

3. If the budget allows, a Club Room at the Ritz Carlton is a great (and ultimately money-saving) option. This room category includes free access to the hotel’s Club Lounge. Located on the 11th floor, it offers splendid views over Red Square and the Kremlin and includes food presentations throughout the day: breakfast, light lunch, afternoon tea, and light dinner, as well as 24-hour snacks and refreshments. Having the quick and free access to food and drinks is an invaluable convenience when traveling with children, especially in an expensive city like Moscow. For a lower-cost option, several room categories at the Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel (Executive Room and above) also offer access to the Executive Lounge where complimentary snacks, appetizers, and soft drinks are served throughout the day.

4. Moscow’s Museum of Cosmonautics (often referred to as the Space Museum) is guaranteed to impress boys of all ages. It is part of a larger complex also including the Monument to the Conquerors of Space (some 350 feet high and covered with titanium) and the Cosmonaut Alley which is lined with busts of cosmonauts and rocket engineers including Gagarin, Tereshkova, and Korolyov. The museum is actually located at the base of the Monument. It re-opened in 2009 after years of renovation and now has 2 additional floors and exhibits which focus not only on Soviet and Russian space exploration but also on international space projects. Exhibits we especially liked were the space suits (and how they were developed and improved through the years), the capsule in which Gagarin flew into space (frighteningly small and claustrophobic), the models of the space stations (in some of which you can actually walk and see the equipment), and the first satellite Sputnik. The museum’s exhibition floors and common areas are all stroller-accessible with ramps and an elevator and there is a café where one can also buy canned ‘space food’. Meeting with a Russian astronaut to take you around the museum can be arranged in advance at an additional cost.

5. Kremlin’s Armory Museum – one of Moscow’s highlights, can also be lots of fun for children. Boys are impressed by the weapons and armor from Russia, Western Europe, and the Orient, while girls are enchanted by the carriages and ceremonial dresses once worn by queens and princesses (including Catherine the Great herself). Having a guide who can communicate the wealth of in information in a child – friendly was is also of great importance.

6. Moscow’s immense subway system is rightfully considered one of the city’s ‘must-sees’ but, as we found out, might not be such a positive experience with young children. The rushing crowds are truly overwhelming and there is quite a bit of walking involved, especially when switching from one metro line to another, which is tiring for little legs. Most of the subway stations are not stroller (or wheelchair) accessible either.

7. Make a brief stop at the former House of the Romanov Boyars. Located just a short walk from Red Square, this small museum is often overlooked but a visit there is totally worth it. This is where the Romanov family lived for centuries before Mikhail Romanov was elected a tsar and the whole family moved to the Kremlin. The house only has two levels and the interiors have been beautifully re-created with frescoes, leather tapestries, tiled stoves, and wood paneling. The lower level was occupied by the men’s rooms and the upper level is where the women spent most of their time reading, weaving, and embroidering.

8. Take a stroll along the Old (Stary) Arbat Street. It is one of the few pedestrian-only streets in Moscow’s center where you can finally let go of your kids’ hands and watch them run around and enjoy the street artists and performers and the colorful displays of the shops selling souvenirs and Russian handicrafts.

9. See a circus performance. One of Moscow’s popular circus venues is the Grand Moscow Circus (often referred to as the New Circus), which is more high-tech (with interchangeable arenas) and focuses on acrobatics. We went the Old Circus, which is named after the famous Russian clown and comedian Yuri Nikulin. This is a traditional one-ring circus which is much smaller (so good seats are harder to obtain) and focuses more on clown acts (in the tradition of Nikulin who was the circus’ director for many years) and animal tricks. The performance on that evening was completely sold out. It certainly had an old-fashioned and somewhat nostalgic feel to it (as if going back in time) but the kids thoroughly enjoyed it.

10. Moscow has a small but charming Museum of Ice Sculptures where characters from Russian fairytales are skillfully cut from ice blocks and displayed. The mastery and attention to detail of these sculptures is truly amazing. There is also a section where ice-carving demonstrations and master classes are held throughout the day (advance booking is required). The temperature in the ice-sculpture room is kept below freezing and visitors are given cloaks to keep warm.

11. One of my personal favorite museums in Moscow – the Tolstoy house-museum, went down surprisingly well with my 8-year old daughter. You do not have to be a Tolstoy fan to enjoy a tour of his family’s wooden house which has been perfectly preserved in its original state and is packed with authentic personal items. It rally takes you back in time and offers an intriguing insight into the life of Russia petty bourgeoisie before the 1917 revolution. Peeking into the rooms of Tolstoy’s children, my daughter (who has a vivid imagination anyway) seemed to get immersed into the details of their everyday lives and my 4-year old son thoroughly enjoyed rolling in the snow which covered the large estate yard, so the visit was not entirely lost on him either.

Turkish Delights, Part II: What can be found in a Turkish Salt Mine?

2011-01-14T16:20:00.006-05:00

After the wonderful archeological adventure at Ani, followed by an amazing dinner in Kars, we continued our journey with a drive to Van. All of us were looking forward to finally catch a glimpse of the legendary Mt. Ararat that was on the agenda for the day. What we did not know was the surprise detour that our guide was saving for us. As we all sat in our minibus, we could not take our eyes off of the beautiful landscape. The rugged mountains seemed to never end, offering new impressive shapes after each turn of the road. Villages with thin long minarets dotted the valleys and the sky was blue without a cloud. And then our guide and driver conspired, mischievously smiling and discussing directions in Turkish, and took us to visit what seemed like an abandoned mine. Curious, we got off of our bus and probed the muddy entrance of the mine with our shoes. Then, two men materialized from the inside, we later found out they were geology professors from Ankara. They looked very happy and after talking to them, our guide grinned and rushed us back to the minibus. But instead of turning away, the driver dove right into the depths of the mine. We were confused but delighted by the adventure. After a few minutes of wandering trough the labyrinth, we saw the light. There it was, in all its unexpected glamor, a coffee house inside the mine! I thought of Ali Baba inside Mt. Sesame as I stared at the gorgeously upholstered big chairs and sofas, booths with plush pillows adorned with chains of flashing lights and water pipes on the tables. This was positively the most bizarre thing I have ever found inside a mountain. Chai?, asked our guide. Chai!, we answered in unison. And that is how, inside a Salt Mine, we established a tradition that lasted for the rest of the trip. Cup of hot tea, anywhere at any time of the day whenever the opportunity presented itself, although to our chagrin, it was never inside a mine again.

Don’t ask where this Salt Mine Café is, the guides have too much fun thinking about how to best surprise you.

Turkish Delights, Part I: Kars and Ani

2010-11-19T16:52:00.003-05:00

Recently, my colleagues and I returned from a whirlwind trip to Turkey. Eight nights, each at a different hotel, three internal flights and hours of driving, it was an adventure that may not appeal to everyone but I would repeat it in a heart beat. Besides visiting the well known sites such as Ephesus or Pamukkale, we were fortunate enough to have a chance to explore the far corners of Turkey and at one point found ourselves just few yards away from the border with Iran. After the trip, we concluded that Eastern Turkey was the highlight for all of us.

Immediately after our transatlantic flight, we continued to Kars. The three hour Turkish Airlines flight was smooth, food thousand times more delicious than whatever they serve on US domestic flights these days, and with a window seat, I got a sneak peak of the impressive and rugged mountains we were to admire for the next couple days. The airplane made a nice circle around Kars and its Citadel which I guessed must have been purely for our benefit as we were the only plane that was landing there that afternoon.

We were all pretty tired at that point but since time was tight, we had to take advantage of the beautiful weather and decided to go directly to Ani, the ancient capital of Armenia. It’s only recently that this beautiful site opened for tourists, as it used to be within the militarized border zone with the former Soviet Union and now independent Armenia. We were the only visitors which gave us a chance to roam freely within the large territory of mostly still uncovered sites. Of the city, that once was home to up to 200,000 people and was often called the City of Thousand and One Churches, only few partially reconstructed buildings remain today – the Cathedral, few churches, a Mosque, a Citadel and the city walls. It was eerie but beautiful to walk on the grounds of the city knowing that under every heap of soil or hill there was a crumbled house or church more than a thousand years old. Soon enough, our eyes were glued to the ground as we started to notice potsherds and even pieces of frescoed walls. Our guide who used to be an archeologist could not help falling into his old routine turning over a stone every once in a while and very quickly was rewarded by finding a coin! It was fascinating to see him clean it to try and see what is under the layers of dirt.

And this is how it went from Ani on. At every site, after a while of taking in the beauty of the landscape, architecture or statues, we would promptly turn our gaze down to see what piece of history we might find. (All our findings were always handed over to the local museums and that is how it should be!)

Sarajevo – Stories of Survival and Hope

2010-10-14T16:20:00.002-04:00

Touching down at Sarajevo’s small airport, my mind was flooded with images from news reports from some 15 years ago. How can one forget the horrific scenes of destroyed neighborhoods and entire villages, mass graves, and starving and desperate women and children fleeing their homes in search of safety from the devastation of the Bosnian war?

For many of us, the persisting memories of the brutal war between 1992 and 1995 are the last and only impression we have from Bosnia – Herzegovina, a small Balkan country which was once part of the Yugoslav Federation but declared independence after its break-up in 1991. Is the war officially over? Are foreign visitors safe? Is the countryside still in ruins and strewn with mine fields?

The war has been over for over 15 years now and my recent visit to Bosnia-Herzegovina was a true eye-opener and a pleasant surprise. I encountered warm and friendly people, beautiful mountains and unspoiled countryside, centuries-long and eventful history, diverse culture, and wonderful local food and wine. The capital city of Sarajevo is a surprisingly cosmopolitan place with lively sidewalk cafes and restaurants (which are packed on a sunny day), the picturesque Miljaka river flowing through town, and a curious mixture of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and Socialist architecture. Even though the city has undergone extensive rebuilding since the end of the war, bullet and shrapnel holes can still be seen on many façades. Of course, each one of our Bosnian hosts had their own personal accounts of the Siege of Sarajevo which took place between April 1992 and February 1996. These vivid and heartbreaking stories of immense hardship, tragedy, survival, and hope are what made each one of these encounters a unique and unforgettable experience.

Under the Dayton Peace Agreement which ended the Bosnian War, the country was split into the Republika Srpska and the Bosnian - Croat Federation - two relatively autonomous entities with their own governments, parliaments, and presidencies.

Following the October 4th general elections, it is now clear that Bosniaks are willing to seek compromise and more moderate political line while Bosnian Croats and Serbs preferred to (once again) support more or less radical nationalist and separatist parties. Is there a hope for a multiethnic Bosnia-Herzegovina, or will the country remain divided and in a political gridlock? Let us all hope for the best as the people of Bosnia-Herzegovina deserve nothing less.

Three Things Not To Miss in Estonia

2010-10-08T11:28:00.003-04:00

Estonia’s Capital Tallinn has established itself firmly as the charming picturesque town not to be missed on any cruise itinerary through Northern Europe. It is friendly and small enough to manage in one day. However, my visit this past winter proved that there is a lot more to Estonia than what you may discover during that one day shore excursion. It is, for example, one of the most progressive countries as far as the Internet. The Estonians not only gave world Skype that revolutionized the way we think about phone calls to overseas, they also claimed the right to Internet access as the innate right of all their citizens, thus wifi is available all over the country and is free of charge even at 5 star hotels. Driving to the west coast of Estonia, I kept encountering time and again the giant and beautifully sleek windmills that did not in any way disturb the pristine landscape. From what I saw, the country is well on its way to be Eastern Europe’s most progressive and ecologically minded state and hopefully not even the severe economical crises will steer it off this course.

There are three things that I would recommend to any visitor that wishes to take more time to get to know this fascinating country. First, do not miss the KUMU Art Museum in Tallinn. Designed by the Finnish architect Pekka Vappavuori and opened in February 2006, KUMU is the biggest art museum of the country, housing a comprehensive collection of Estonian art. Its sleek and modern design is a great complement to the more historic Art Museum of the Kadriorg Palace in the park of the same name. The collection includes examples of Classical Estonian Art of the 18th century, wonderful pieces by Avant-garde artists of the 1920’s and also works by contemporary artists. Opening hours: May–Sept Tue-Sun 11.00-18.00, Oct–April Wed–Sun 11.00–18.00.

Second, if you have time to venture beyond Tallinn, head west to visit the Islands of Muhu and Saaremaa. Muhu is the perfect base for your exploration as it is home to Estonia’s best hotel and restaurant, the Padaste Manor and its acclaimed Alexander Restaurant (more details about the hotel in one of the next blogs).

Third, and this is something you may have no influence over, but do try to see a moose. This will obviously only happen when you travel to the countryside, but chances of such encounter are pretty high, especially on the above mentioned islands.

In other words, do take more time to get to know Estonia.

A Different View of Stockholm

2010-09-30T09:41:00.002-04:00

Traveling to Stockholm for the first time, I knew I was in store for some new adventures. Strapping myself into a harness and climbing out onto the (very high) rooftop of the former Parliament building was not one I was expecting! After getting acclimated to the height, I began to look around at the scenery but not without first noticing that the majority of walkways did not have any handrails.

The rooftop did offer a fantastic and unique view over Stockholm’s Old Town as well as various other islands. Our guide was a Sarah Palin look-a like complete with the eye winks. She provided a great time line of the city, including the very building we were standing on, while we maneuvered to different positions along the roof. We were strapped to a cable along the narrow metal walkway, requiring one to carry the cable along like a dog leash.

Later that day, I had a chance to view the Parliament building from a different island and was amazed that we actually climbed up there and walked along its pitched roofs.

Budapest Market Hall, or How to Eat a Langosh Like a True Hungarian

2010-09-24T15:45:00.003-04:00

If you were to ask any Hungarian what not to miss in Budapest, I am quite sure that Budapest Market Hall would be pretty high on their list. I am not Hungarian, but it was definitely one of my priorities during my recent trip to Hungary. Other priorities: a visit to one of Budapest’s baths – done! Coffee and cake at an old time café – done! Castle District, Parliament, Jewish Quarter – all done! So it was time to enjoy some shopping at the Central Market Hall, one of the largest and oldest indoor markets in Central Europe.

My main interest was the food which is sold on the ground floor. The second floor is where you will find souvenirs and kiosks with prepared food. We first browsed through the seemingly never-ending stalls of paprika, garlic, fresh produce and overwhelming variety of meats and sausages. My guide Agi was wonderful and helped me find the best stalls, it was good to see that she actually knew the sellers and was a regular here. In fact, most of the people I saw shopping were locals. On the second floor, I skipped the leather goods and other souvenirs in favor of the Lángos I had been craving ever since landing in Budapest. Lángos [pronounced Langosh] is a deep fried (I know, I know – not good for me!) flat bread that has the most wonderful chewy consistency that works perfectly with the melted cheese you put on top of it. The long line was a good sign and proved to be quite entertaining as I observed my guide cringe with every order of toppings the foreign customers were placing – olives, onions, ham. No, no, no, Agi was truly tortured by the sacrilege committed on her beloved delicacy. You are supposed to eat it with a bit of sour cream, garlic and shredded cheese! I knew better to let her order exactly that for me. And it was delicious!

And the moral of the story is to get a great guide, if not for the enlightening lectures about history and art, then definitely to get the best out of your food experience without making a fool out of yourself.

Budapest Market Hall is open Mon – 6:00AM-5:00PM, Tue-Fri – 6:00AM-6:00PM, Sat -6:00AM-3:00PM, closed on Sunday.

Slovakia’s Not So Secret Secret

2010-09-15T15:20:00.008-04:00

Not many in the US are familiar with Slovakia, but for Europeans, mainly those from Central Europe, it is very popular for its magnificent High Tatra Mountains that lie on the Northern border with Poland. While it may not yet be a destination in itself for Americans, it makes for a great break on your way from Budapest to Krakow, for example. This summer, I was fortunate enough to be able to do just that. My colleague Gwen and I traveled from Budapest to the new Kempinski High Tatras Hotel in Strbske Pleso, a beautiful lake resort set in the Eastern range of the mountains. I was sorry to do the drive at night, because we were missing great scenery – Trnava and Nitra with their impressive castles and the lower mountains of Velka Fatra and Low Tatras. On the other hand, it was wonderful to arrive at night and be surprised by a beautiful view in the morning.

The hotel, reminiscent of a large Hapsburg hunting lodge, is the perfect basis for any type of traveler. Active ones can exert themselves on a number of hiking paths to the surrounding lakes, waterfalls or peaks. Those who prefer a more leisurely vacation can enjoy the scenery while strolling around the lake or taking the ski lift to Solisko and admire the lake from above while sipping hot tea or, better yet, a shot of local herbal liquor.

Not having enough time, I opted for the middle road, taking what was supposed to be a short hike to the Skok Waterfall. It was an ideal afternoon trip, one hour and a half of walking up the hill, picking blueberries and raspberries, spotting mushrooms and hoping to get a glimpse of the chamois that I used to see in Tatras as a kid. In higher altitude the forest receded and I could not stop taking pictures of the peaks around me. I finally arrived to the waterfall and saw that you can climb on top of it. It was getting late but something in me could not resist the challenge, put a waterfall in front of me, I have to climb it! I started to doubt myself when I saw I would have to hold onto chains attached to the rocks along the waterfall, but the adventurer in me won and after few slips and curses, I conquered it. It was worth it for the view and the feeling of accomplishment.

I know that I will go back to spend more time in Tatra Mountains and for those of you who have yet to discover it, I highly recommend it.

The Less Explored Russia

2009-12-11T12:09:00.002-05:00

When one mentions Russia, the first images that pop into any one’s mind would be Moscow or St. Petersburg of course. I had the opportunity to explore the less frequented parts of Russia. Cruising on the Volga Dream, we sailed in elegant style from St. Petersburg to Moscow in seven days.

I must admit I was alarmed at first when arriving at the St. Petersburg port to see 15-20 vessels docked. But my worries were quickly dismissed once we departed and we felt like the only vessel for miles. How peaceful it was to drift along with views of gorgeous wooded areas mile after mile, only to be interrupted by a spectacular cathedral decorated with the traditional onion domes. We sailed so close to an old cathedral swallowed up by the Volga River we felt like we could reach out and touch it.

Along the 1800 kilometer journey, we entered 19 locks gently raising us to Moscow’s 200 meters above sea level. Each day brought new delights, with a stop in a new port. The ports varied from a small island created to be an open air museum with a breathtaking twenty-two domed wooden church to a small city which is part of the Golden Ring. All of the ports feature glimpse into the lives of rural Russians-whether past or present. The experience provided us a broader view of Russia beyond its two famous cities. Something everyone should consider when deciding to explore this vast country.

Wroclaw Update

2009-12-08T11:12:00.005-05:00

One of my favorite cities in Poland is Wroclaw. It’s got all the charm of Krakow, but without the typical tourist hoards. It really feels like a true local experience. 2010 is a big year for those interested in Wroclaw’s Jewish Heritage, as it will see the reopening of the synagogue, which has been completely restored. I was able to do a quick walk-through on my visit last month and it’s truly going to be spectacular. This was once one of the largest synagogues in the German Empire (remember that Wroclaw was once the German city of Breslau) and was a center of liberal Judaism.

We have always had a bit of a challenge with hotels here, but the opening of two new properties in the past year has made this city very comfortable for our visitors.

Located in one of the most beautiful art nouveau buildings in the city, the Monopol opened this past April and is truly the cream of the crop in Wroclaw. This hotel is from the same family that owns the Copernicus and Stary in Krakow, two of our favorite hotels, and you can see their signature touches in this hotel as well. The historic façade belies the interior of dark marble, stark furnishings and contemporary touches.

Most room sizes are generous and have wood floors. My Classic Suite had gorgeous exposed brick elements and a lovely arch leading from the sleeping area to the living area. My only complaint would be the lack of furniture. The “living room” of the suite consisted of one chair, albeit comfortable, and a footstool. I was impressed by the compact, but luxurious bathroom. A separate bathtub and rainfall shower was quite nice and mine had a window, which allowed natural light into the relatively dark space.

The spa here is beautiful and I had a delicious dinner at the high-end seafood restaurant on the top floor with its panoramic views of Wroclaw. There is a fine dining restaurant with traditional Polish food on the ground floor as well as a chic bar.

For guests who appreciate a contemporary hotel, this is a great pick.

The Granary – La Suite Hotel has an unfortunate mouthful of a name, but I liked the simple elegance of the property. It just opened on November 9th and is on a small side street, approximately 10 minutes on foot from the Old Town Square. This hotel is perfect for those with mobility issues, as it is completely wheelchair accessible. As the name indicates, it is in a former medieval granary and they have used elements of the original building in the décor.

Rooms here are all-suite, making them some of the largest in the city. With only 47 rooms, it retains a boutique-hotel feel. Furnishings tend toward contemporary, but are more comfortable and welcoming than found in many similar hotels. The suites are spacious and some are located under a wall of glass, making them filled with light.

A small restaurant and fitness center round out the offerings here. It’s the perfect hotel for families or for those who need a bit of extra space. Those who are driving themselves might find the entrance (and parking lot) a bit difficult to navigate – even my driver had difficulties with the narrow space.

These two hotels are a welcome addition to this beautiful city.

November 17, Prague

2009-11-17T15:57:00.001-05:00

On this day, twenty years ago, my sister, three aunts and I were supposed to deliver a birthday cake for my cousin who was born on November 17 - a day that commemorates the tragic death of Jan Opletal, a student killed by the Nazis during the occupation and that has since become The International Day of Students. It was 1989 and people, mainly students, took to the streets turning the celebration of the Students' Day into a protest against the communist regime that was still desperately holding on to the power.

My aunts and I decided that the birthday party would have to wait a bit since we wanted to support the protesters. I was barely a teenager then and felt huge pride for being able to join the demonstration. It was the first time I really looked at people around me and felt a common bond. Before that no one on the streets of Prague would look into your eyes, nobody would engage in a conversation with a stranger. Now we were screaming in unison and demanded freedom. The feeling of change about to come was palpable, for me there was no question about it - it was in the smiles and the excitement of people around me. Some of the leaders of the demonstration decided to move from Vysehrad down to the center towards Narodni Avenue. A few minutes later, there were rumors of police and militia blocking the streets to contain the protestors. It was then that my aunts made the call to leave and finally deliver the now slightly damaged cake.

Later that evening, we found out from my grandmother who had stayed longer that people were brutally beaten as the orders came to stop the demonstration at all cost. My grandmother was saved by a stranger who unlocked the entrance door to an apartment building and took peoplein. I felt slightly embarrassed that I was saved by a cake, but I guess I should not complain. The events of that day led to more protests and eventually the end of the Communist rule in Czechoslovakia.

Today, I remember November 17 along with the whole country and I am grateful that it is only history now. People are free to celebrate or protest, voice their opinion and travel whenever and wherever they like. They are free to vote and free to be unsatisfied with the government. They are even free to scream at the current president as one of the student leaders did yesterday. And that is something to celebrate!

Oh, and happy birthday, cousin!

Winter Wonderland

2009-11-01T16:38:00.002-05:00

A Russian winter is truly spectacular (see my last posting) and this Winter Wonderland extends far from the main cities of Moscow and St. Petersburg and the countryside surrounding them. To really experience a Russian winter, you need to venture into the vast wilderness that is Siberia and beyond.

As you set out east from Moscow, there continue to be pockets of civilization – Kazan the capital of Tartarstan with its own Kremlin (not as strong and powerful as Moscow’s but every bit as historical and a UNESCO World Heritage site). Here the snow glistens on the minarets of a mosque sitting side by side with an onion domed church, elegant icicles dangling from the rooflines of both without distinction.

A little further east is the European / Asia divide, the spot where two great continents meet. Locals dressed in somewhat hokey costumes and sporting megaphones to be sure you can hear them, recreate the Russian tradition of welcoming you with bread and salt. Of course a steaming hot cup of chocolate or warming broth would seem to be more appropriate in the rapidly tumbling temperatures and crisp white snow covering the ground but bread and salt it is and bread and salt it will always be.

The town closest to this geographical celebration is Yekaterinburg, the third largest city in Russia and best known for being the location where the last Tsar was executed by the Bolsheviks in 1918. (A church marks the spot).

A sense of modernity continues in Novosibirsk but winter is obviously harsher here. Perhaps it is the fact that Novosibirsk is a relatively modern city and lacks the romanticism of what has gone before. In front of the largest opera house in the world, ice hangs from the statue of Lenin. Can it possibly get any colder!

Yes it can…..heading east from Novosibirsk is the great emptiness of fame – Siberia! Miles and miles (hundreds and thousands of miles) of emptiness are stunningly beautiful and appallingly cold. From time to time you come across a lone wooden house or small community, snow drifts reaching towards the roof, smoke from a raw fire snaking from chimneys and a horse standing in snow up to its hocks. Hallmark can only dream of such scenes gracing the front of their winter season cards.

You might think that this bitter cold would cause people to curl up and hibernate for five months but exactly the opposite. Yes, the days are short but instead of the dreary wet slushy winters so many urbanites face year after year, in this part of the world winter comes with lots of sunshine between snow showers, the snow remains crisp and clean, trees are permanently clad in white and the locals love to get their cross country skis out or strap a troika to the back of their horses and get out and enjoy this magnificent beauty.

Lake Baikal, one of the world’s natural phenomena (and the deepest lake in the world) actually freezes over in the depth of winter. It takes a little getting used to, being able to safely walk far out from the shore but if it can handle the weight of a train (before the rail track that circumvents the lake was built, temporary tracks were laid across the lake in winter for a short cut), it can certainly handle the weight of an average human being!

The question of course is how to do all of this in reasonable comfort. Mastering the roads on a self-drive expedition is not advisable and therefore out of the question. You can independently travel by rail from point to point, stopping off for a day or two to meet the locals, braving bitingly cold wind swept rail platforms and pouring over timetables waiting for the next local train service to points onward sharing toilets on board and improving your Russian as food carts pass by or you try to navigate the Russian only menu in the restaurant car (cash only, please). Or you can use the same rail tracks and journey on board the private Golden Eagle Trans Siberian Express with heated en-suite bathrooms in every cabin, lounge and bar car to relax and view that stunning countryside and three good meals a day prepared on board and served in the well appointed dining cars, accompanied by wines - all included.

The choice, of course, is yours and each has their own budget but which ever way you do this trip, just be sure to do it – the magnificence of a true Russian winter will stay with you for ever.

Maltese Chapel in St. Petersburg

2009-10-26T08:41:00.002-04:00

When I travel, I absolutely love experiences that are a little off the beaten track. My favorites are the ones that are closed to the public – it does not get much more exclusive and unique than that. On my last trip to Russia, I was able to experience a handful of these. One of the most extraordinary ones was a visit to the Maltese Chapel.

The Maltese Chapel is part of the Vorontsov Palace, built in the 18th century. The Palace houses Russia’s most important military school, the Suvorov Military Academy. Our tour was led personally by the chaplain of the Academy’s church, Father Alexander.

The beauty of this chapel made me feel super special for being in such an exclusive place. We even got to touch ancient books that would normally be protected by a glass screen or guards making sure you do not get too close. And since the cadets were on summer break, we also got to see the part of the Military Academy where they sleep, and even their little gym!

But for me personally, the best part was knowing that we helped support the Children’s Hospice charity, founded by Father Alexander in 2003. The charity provides relief for terminally ill children and their parents, along with making the children’s last wishes come true. The visit to the Academy may be arranged through Exeter for a set donation that goes entirely to the Children’s Hospice.

It is great to know that having fun actually made a difference this time around!

Paris of Siberia?

2009-10-16T11:33:00.006-04:00

I had the pleasure of traveling on the Golden Eagle train on the Trans-Siberian Express Railway in September. I joined the trip in the town of Irkutsk. After arriving from Moscow at 5:00 in the morning to freezing temperatures, I had a few hours to freshen up (and bundle up), before the train arrived.

Irkutsk is known as the “Paris of Siberia”. Today, this is clearly an overstatement, but in the late 19th century, after the Decembrist revolt, the city became a forced home to the many exiled intellectuals and prominent figures and grew into a cultural center of Siberia.

We started our day by visiting a few of the local churches there as well as the Gagarin Embankment. After lunch we visited the Alexander III monument commemorating the construction of the Trans-Siberian railway and explored some of the wooden houses and architecture around Irkutsk. We were given some time to wander around the market hall before ending our day at the mansion of Decembrist Prince Volkonsky which concluded with a private concert there. It was a nice way to end the first day of this amazing journey.

I must say though, of all the cities and towns that I visited on the trek back to Moscow, Irkutsk was my least favorite. I’m glad I went because I can now say “I’ve been to Irkutsk” but it’s a place that’s not high on my places to return list.

At the Hanging Coffee – Great Pub in Prague

2009-10-13T12:59:00.001-04:00

The restaurant scene in Prague has always been slightly irritating to me. It is only recently that it has stabilized and you will find the same restaurants exactly where you left them couple years ago. One of my favorite restaurants in Prague and a true constant in the city, is the Café and Pub At the Hanging Coffee in the Castle District. I loved it as a student and I love it now. It has always stayed true to what it is supposed to be – a great neighborhood pub with wonderful beer and food.

The story behind the name tells you how laid back this place is: A person eats his or her lunch, orders a coffee and then pays his bill adding one more coffee to it – leaving it “hanging”. A broke person can come in and ask: is there a coffee hanging here? If there is, he gets to drink it for free.

The restaurant offers authentic, no-nonsense Czech cuisine. If you are not hungry enough for half duck with cherry sauce, red cabbage and dumplings, you can sip your beer and munch on a herring or pickled cheese. Try to leave some room for dessert, their fruit dumplings are delicious.

So now you know where to get a cup of coffee if you lose your wallet in Prague!

Presidential Treatment - A Visit to the Grand Kremlin Palace

2009-09-29T15:43:00.007-04:00

During my last visit to Moscow, I had the pleasure of visiting the Grand Kremlin Palace, the Faceted Chamber and Terem. This is the official residence of the Russian president and is completely closed to the public. Except for Exeter guests, of course! While Russian President Dmitry Medvedev does not actually live there, this is where he entertains his guests and where he hosts visits and meetings. Our own President was there just a week before us! In fact, our guide at the Grand Kremlin Palace was very fond of Obama and very excited about his visit.

One of the first rooms we saw was the Faceted Chamber, which used to be the main banquet and reception hall of the Tzars. This beautiful room, which now holds receptions, is covered with murals that were painted by Palekh craftsmen in the 19th century and that capture the most important events of Russian history.

One of the things you will notice is that all throughout the Grand Kremlin Palace the parquet floors are very well taken care of and absolutely flawless. They are essentially an attraction on their own. We were asked to stand on the red carpet in order to preserve the beautiful floor.

Two halls in particular took my breath away. First, I entered St. Alexander Hall, created in honor of Alexander Nevsky. Its walls are decorated with artificial pink marble and gilded bust columns. This room was one of the most exquisite places I had even been in.

But… just as I thought I had seen the most beautiful room in my life, I entered St. Andrew’s Hall – the throne room. This room was restored in the 1990’s and is so powerful and overwhelming that even if I was allowed to take a picture, it would never do it justice. While the whole palace is stunning, this room was by far my favorite and the most breathtaking one. I literally could have sat there for hours just staring.

Our Woman in Siberia

2009-09-20T09:46:00.004-04:00

While all of us here in the office work long hours to make sure that our clients have wonderful vacation and all last minute bookings go smoothly, one of our colleagues is enjoying a weeklong journey on the luxurious Trans-Siberian Express. Do I sound jealous? That is because I am. Maybe a vacation in a region that is mostly associated with freezing cold and labor camps is not what you are looking for, but from her daily emails, I know that Lori is enjoying her trip beyond expectations. I invite you to come back to our blog in a few days to read her report about flying all across Russia to Irkutsk, about visiting the Opera House and the Railway Museum in Novosibirsk, learning Russian on board of the train and much more.
The Trans-Siberian Express offers several journeys through Siberia and Central Asia, the longest one runs along the Silk Road all the way to Beijing and features visits to such wonderful sites like the Bukhara Madrassa, the Registan Square of Samarkand or the Terrakota Warriors in Xian.

Cold War Bunker...

2009-08-21T10:27:00.002-04:00

In the Taganskaya area of the Moscow, stands an apartment building on a street corner. This building appears to be typical of every other building on the block but it does hold a secret. A 1950’s era cold war bunker is located 20 stories below. The only visible sign from ground level is the army green gate with a red star on it.

Once we were granted entrance (appointments are necessary), we were ushered in and then an enormous door was slammed shut and locked behind us letting us just how secure this site once was. My companions and I squeezed into a small elevator with our guide who was appropriately dressed in the traditional Russian army garb of green and red. We were delighted we did not have to climb down (or back up) 20 flights of stairs.

Once the elevator doors opened, we stepped in a maze of cavernous dimly lit tunnels. Small light bulbs hung from the ceiling providing just enough light to see a few feet in front of us. Wires dangle from the ceilings and walls alluding to unfinished construction. The bunker was originally dug out as part of the metro system. Every few minutes we could hear the roar and feel the vibrations of the metro zooming by a tunnel just feet away from where we were standing.
After wandering through the corridors, suddenly a large siren went off and red lights began flashing prompting jumps and screams from our group. With Russian commands barking over the loud speaker, it really gave us a sense that an attack was imminent.

Finally, we arrived at the command center. This bunker was the main center for communication in the event of a nuclear attack. Much of the original communication equipment is still in tact. A large picture of Stalin hangs on the wall and a Russian military jacket and hat rest on a chair.

We took the elevator back up to ground level, walked out into the bright sunlight and joined the pedestrians walking on the street that probably walked past here every day and had no idea what lies beneath them.

White Nights in Russia...

2009-08-18T15:27:00.002-04:00

“White Nights” is the time of the year when the sun never completely sets in places of high latitude, including northern Russia. The days are very long, and there is never complete darkness.

On my first night in St. Petersburg last July, I was restless. Our dinner ended around 10:00PM (in broad daylight) and somewhere between jet lag and peeking behind the hotel curtains every 30 minutes, I did not get much sleep.

When I returned from the dinner to my room, I started looking out the window. Soon it was midnight, and I could still see so many people out on the streets. It was almost impossible to tell how late it was. As exhausted as I was, I had an urge of going out on the streets – and almost did! I felt like I was missing out on valuable time by staying in my room, but my rational side told me I needed some rest. I finally managed to take a nap until I woke up and saw the sun shining so bright that it made me jump out of bed thinking I was late. It was 4:45AM!

I have to say … it was worth not resting for one night - it is not everyday that you get to see dusk at 1:00AM. Not in Florida anyway. We hear so much about the White Nights, but actually seeing it is definitely a whole new experience. Plus, the bonus daylight hours give you extra energy for long days of touring – I found it all fascinating.

And a perk for those interested in arts are the top-notch performances that happen at the Mariinsky Theater in St. Petersburg. The “Festival of the White Nights” happens between May and July, and includes a series of ballet, opera and concert events including Russian and international renowned performers. Performance fans should not miss this time of the year in St. Petersburg – it is truly fantastic.

Vodka Tasting!

2009-08-11T09:23:00.000-04:00

Those who enjoy good vodka will always have a fabulous time in Russia. On my latest trip, we were able to enjoy a vodka tasting during our cruise on the Volga Dream. And it was worth a shot - no pun intended! I found the vodka tasting particularly interesting because we were learning some basic vodka facts, and then trying it.

First, we learned a few “ground rules”. Number one: Bottoms up. Russians drink vodka all in one shot – no sipping! Also, Russians never drink vodka without food - they do the shot, and then eat a salty snack (caviar and blinis go quite well). With this information, we were ready for our first shot of typical Russian vodka.

Also, Russians never drink alone - you have to have at least a couple of people to drink with you. As we had a fabulous group, we were ready for our second shot: some yellow-looking vodka that, as it turns out, was pepper-flavored. Yowza!

I was still recovering from the pepper taste when I learned that Russians do not consider any vodka that is less than 40% to be “real” vodka. We then had our third shot, a kind that is considered to be “ladies’ vodka” (as it is only 35%): Plum vodka. Interesting.

I also found out that the reason why we think that the Russian vodka tastes different is simply because it does! While many types of vodka are made from potatoes, Russian vodka is made from grains.

And finally, we cannot forget about another Russian tradition: You must always toast. Na zdorovje! (To your health), followed by the grand finale: Lime-flavored vodka.

Baggage Weight- watch out for the extra fees!

2009-07-31T11:15:00.002-04:00

When I wrote my previous email regarding packing, I should have mentioned the most important thing—the weight of the luggage. You always need to check with your specific carrier directly, but for most transatlantic flights you are allowed 50 lbs/bag in economy and 70 lbs/bag in business. The problem is, once you are overseas and traveling from country to country-the luggage allowance drops.

Most carriers within Europe allow 44 lbs TOTAL for the bags in economy and 66 lbs in business. Although I know it’s hard to pack efficiently for a long trip overseas, it’s best to do so, so you do not run into any problems or any extra expense. We have had instances where clients have incurred small overweight fees, so please be aware while packing.

My colleague, Kevan, always amazes everyone with his packing skills…he packs 7-10 days worth of clothes into a backpack size suitcase that he carries on the plane with him. Oh, and I forgot to mention that he usually always has a sport coat in there and none of his clothes are EVER wrinkled. So keep that in mind while packing for your trip and you’ll be sure to never be at risk for the dreaded overweight fees that are imposed by ALL the airlines!

Cold War Bunker...

2009-07-28T15:38:00.004-04:00

I just returned from Russia, and I would like to say that one of the most intriguing places that I visited this time was the Cold War Bunker. If you are interested in Military History, or simply in a historic location that is very exciting and at the same time a break from the Museum–Palace route, I definitely recommend a stop at this recently-opened Bunker.

The entrance is deceivingly small. First, you hop on an elevator (or stairs, if you are up for it) and go down 18 floors to the Bunker. A series of long tunnels and metal stairs followed, while our Bunker guide told us more about its history. It is particularly fascinating to hear the Metro running above your head!! The very dark and cold tunnels got particularly scary at one point when suddenly all the lights shut off and the very loud emergency alarm went off! I just stood there… and I am glad it was completely dark, as I am sure I had a total “deer in the headlights” moment. My feeling was that the subway was going to come and run the deer (me) over but, as it turns out, it was no real emergency. Phew!

At the end, we were taken to a room for a wonderful special treat! The Red Army Choir was singing some Russian classics just for us. They were so talented and enthusiastic, and they completely put us in the mood for the vodka, tea and kasha (a porridge commonly eaten in Eastern Europe) that were waiting for us at the end.

The perfect end to such a unique day!

The plane that never takes off...

2009-07-24T11:31:00.001-04:00

Parked at the end of the runway at Amsterdam's Teuge airport, the IIyushin 18 has become the newest addition to the luxury hotel market. Ben Thijssen, a Dutch entrepreneur, converted the 131-foot long plane into a 5-star hotel suite.

For approximately $500 per night, you can stay in one of the most unique and exciting hotels in all the world- an airplane! Amenities include 3 flat-screen televisions, wireless internet, a kitchenette, an infrared sauna, and of course a whirlpool- I mean what plane doesn't have a whirlpool!

The "Airplane Hotel" opens for reservations on August 1, 2009. Book your room (or cabin) today!

Villa Säikkärä – Luxury in Lapland

2009-07-10T14:32:00.003-04:00

Have you ever dreamed of being pampered in the absolute middle of nowhere in the depths of winter? If so then Villa Säikkärä could be for you.

Located in Lapland and about 45 minutes from the airport that services the small town of Rovaniemi, this tranquil location is located on the end of the Säikkäräniemi headland a formation shaped by the Ice Age. The spot has been used for festivities by the indigenous Sámi for centuries. The historical setting and stunning surrounding natural spectacle will leave any guest speechless. It feels as though time has stood still here.

Inside Villa Säikkärä, this same timeless atmosphere continues. The cozy high class log-built villa accommodates and caters for its guests while respecting traditions in the appropriate manner. Lappish hospitality is provided by the Säikkärä host, Risto Kauppinen, who personally receives his guests. It is a matter of honour for the host to ensure his guests enjoy their stay and experience the true Lappish atmosphere.

The villa has 6 double rooms, a spacious combined living and dining room with a big fireplace, a special cigar terrace and separate sauna building with 4 showers and a fireplace.
In the wintertime, huskies, reindeer or snowmobiles take the Villa Säikkärä guests through untouched snowy landscapes, and the waterways provide ice fishing experiences.

In the evening indulge in a traditional Finnish sauna right at the villa. The tradition of the sauna, carried on unbroken for about two thousand years, is deeply rooted in the Finns' way of life. Sauna bathing is part of the Finnish identity just as essentially as rye bread is part of the customary diet. In Villa Säikkärä you can enjoy the relaxing heat and the peaceful atmosphere in this private sauna.

You might also want to take a dip in the lake water – yes, even in winter! A large hole is made in the ice which provides a unique experience and the opportunity to feel the cold waters of the northen lake. You can also try rolling in the snow outside the sauna - it will “sure make your blood run” as the Finns say! After the sauna rediscover your sanity relaxing in a cozy room with an open fire place.

During your stay you can make use of the snow shoes supplied in the villa but for some real adventure arrangements can be made to explore the countryside on dog hauled sleds or on snowmobiles. You can also visit a reindeer farm and experience the joy of riding on a sleigh pulled by reindeer.

For those lucky enough to stay at the villa over Christmas a private visit to Santa Clause in his nearby office can be arranged after which you have a chance to shop in Santa’s Village or sit back and enjoy lunch in the village accompanied by a heart warming glass of Salmiakki-Kossu or Salmari, prepared by mixing in salty black salmiakki licorice, whose taste masks the alcohol behind it fearfully well. Or play it safe and try the non-alcoholic Pommac, an unusual soda made from (according to the label) "mixed fruits", which you'll either love or hate. But you have to try it to know for sure.

The highlight of any Christmas Eve stay will be when you hear the jingling of bells, at first in the distance, but slowly approaching the villa and looking out of the snow framed window you will see Santa Clause arriving on his reindeer-drawn sleigh for a private visit before setting off on his trip around the world. You will soon find out just how good you have been this year!

Top 10 Experiences with Exeter.....

2009-06-30T15:26:00.004-04:00

All of us here at Exeter International, including myself, have been lucky enough to see and experience some of the most extraordinary things in the world. I have met with a KGB colonel (in the former KGB building), had dinner at Catherine Palace on New Years and toured Stalin's personal bunker. I am turning 30 years old and compared to most of my friends, I have lived life to the fullest!

With everything I have seen and done, I have to say our most "extraordinary experiences" are:

Private Tour of the KGB Museum with a retired KGB colonel (and don't let him fool you, he knows English)
Private Tour of Stalin's Bunker
Entrance to the Grand Kremlin Palace and Terem (located on the Kremlin grounds and STRICTLY closed to the public)
Backstage tour of the Mariinsky Theater in St. Petersburg (if you are lucky like me, you can even try on one of the costumes)
Hermitage Storage Rooms
The Amber Rooms Workshops of Catherine Palace
VIP entrance to the Strahov Monastery in Prague
Private Wine Tasting at the Matusko Family vineyard
Truffle Hunting in Livade
Private tour of the Maltese Chapel of Vorontsov Palace and the Suvorov Military Academy

If you are looking for something different, something beyond the ordinary than you are looking for us. We are the famous for making our travelers say "That was the best trip of my life!"

Importance of Travel Insurance....

2009-06-26T16:04:00.004-04:00

You never know what the future holds. We all believe that "it will never happen to me" but guess what, it does! Through the years, I have seen cancellations due to health complications, divorce, loss of job, natural disaster and worst of all death. Chances are you will probably be fine and the trip will go off without a hitch but what if it doesn't?

As a tour operator, we follow a strict cancellation policy for we have to protect the hotels, guides, car services, and most of all the time the staff has taken to put together this fabulous trip. Even though you did not take the trip, the guides that we booked still have to paid!

Typically, travel insurance equates to about 10% of your total trip costs. For those of you that have not purchased travel insurance, this probably looks like a ton of money (I know you are computing the numbers and yes it is about $1,000 for a $10,000 trip). However, lets look at it a different way- what it you do have to cancel that trip? Our cancellation policy states ZERO refunds on any trip canceled less than 14 days out. This means you have lost $10,000 and you were not even at a table in Vegas having a great time.

In the end, BUY THE INSURANCE. It is the safest and smartest purchase and much more important than that upgrade to a 2-bedroom suite.

Make them read! Children's Books about Prague...

2009-06-16T12:12:00.001-04:00

A while ago I wrote a blog about what to do with children when you go to Prague. Now, despite the fact that I do not have any children myself and am generally immune to their supposed cuteness, I want to give you some profoundly insightful advice about what to do before you actually get there. Make them read about Prague!

If your children read stories about Prague and its history before they travel, they will be looking forward to the trip, they will feel smart and engaged when the guide tells them something they already read about, and they will be able to see things from a totally different perspective. Although the American publishers, to my chagrin, generally ignore contemporary Czech writers (except for Kundera), there is a good number of original or translated books for children available in English.

One of my favorite authors is the critically acclaimed writer and illustrator Peter Sís. His Three Golden Keys (ages 4-8) will undoubtedly excite your children’s imagination and expose them to legends about the magical city of Prague, including the one about Golem or the brave prince Bruncvik and his friend, the two-tailed lion that became the symbol of the Czech State. Another wonderful book is The Wall: Growing Up Behind the Iron Curtain (ages 8 and up) inspired by Mr. Sís’s own transformation from an innocent and clueless child into a rebellious teen and an aspiring artist whose hopes are crushed by the Soviet invasion in 1968. Once your children read these books, they will understand more of what they are seeing in Prague and what formed the people they encounter there and you will be spared their yawns and eye-rolls in the museums, synagogues and churches.

Winter Wonderland...

2009-06-02T14:15:00.003-04:00

A Russian winter is truly spectacular (see my last posting) and this Winter Wonderland extends far from the main cities of Moscow and St. Petersburg and the countryside surrounding them. To really experience this incredible season and truly be able to say you have experienced a Russian winter you need to venture into the vast wilderness that is Siberia and beyond.

As you venture east from Moscow, there continue to be pockets of civilization – Kazan the capital of Tartarstan with its own Kremlin (not as strong and powerful as Moscow’s but every bit as historical and a UNESCO World Heritage site). Here the snow glistens on the minarets of a mosque sitting side by side with an onion domed church, elegant icicles dangling from the roof lines of both without distinction.

A little further east is the European / Asia divide, the spot where two great continents meet. Locals dressed in somewhat hokey costumes and sporting megaphones to be sure you can hear them, recreate the Russian tradition of welcoming you with bread and salt. Of course a steaming cup of hot chocolate or vegetable soup would seem to be more appropriate in the rapidly tumbling temperatures and crisp white snow covering the ground but bread and salt it is and bread and salt it will always be.

The town closest to this geographical celebration is Yekaterinburg, the third largest city in Russia and best known for being the location where the last Tsar was executed by the Bolsheviks in 1918. (A rather Disneyesque church marks the spot).

A sense of modernity continues in Novosibirsk but winter is obviously harsher here. Perhaps it is the fact that Novosibirsk is a relatively modern city and lacks the romanticism of what has gone before. In front of the largest opera house in the world, ice hangs from the statue of Lenin. Can it possibly get any colder!

Yes it can…..heading east from Novosibirsk is the great emptiness of fame – Siberia! Miles and miles (hundreds and thousands of miles) of emptiness are stunningly beautiful and appallingly cold. From time to time you come across a lone wooden house or small community, snow drifts reaching towards the roof, smoke from a raw fire snaking from chimneys and a horse standing in snow up to its hocks. Hallmark can only dream of such scenes gracing the front of their winter season cards.

You might think that this bitter cold would cause people to curl up and hibernate for five months but exactly the opposite. Yes, the days are short but instead of the dreary wet slushy winters so many urbanites face year after year, in this part of the world winter comes with lots of sunshine between snow showers, the snow remains crisp and clean, trees are permanently clad in white and the locals love to get their cross country skis out or strap a troika to the back of their horses and get out and enjoy this magnificent beauty.

Lake Baikal, one of the world’s natural phenomena (and the deepest lake in the world) actually freezes over in the depth of winter. It takes a little getting used to, being able to safely walk far out from the shore but if it can handle the weight of a train (before the rail track that circumvents the lake was built temporary tracks were laid across the lake in winter for a short cut), it can certainly handle the weight of an average human being!

The questions of course is how to do all of this in reasonable comfort. Mastering the roads on a self-drive expedition is not advisable and therefore out of the question. You can independently travel by rail from point to point, stopping off for a day or two to meet the locals, braving bitingly cold wind swept rail platforms and pouring over timetables waiting for the next local train service to points onward sharing toilets on board and improving your Russian as food carts pass by or you try to navigate the Russian only menu in the restaurant car (cash only, please). Or you can use the same rail tracks and journey on board the private Golden Eagle Trans Siberian Express with heated en-suite bathrooms in every cabin, lounge and bar car to relax and view that stunning countryside and three good meals a day prepared on board and served in the well appointed dining cars, accompanied by wines - all included.

The choice of course is yours and each has their own budget but which ever way you do this trip, just be sure to do it – the magnificence of a true Russian winter will stay with you for ever.

What to think about when planning a trip for the entire family...

2009-05-26T12:35:00.009-04:00

Just 5 years ago, our typical traveler was retired, well educated, well traveled and about 65 years old. Oh, how the things have changed. More and more we find ourselves planing trips for travelers of all ages, especially those between 5 and 15. We have had to reevaluate our programs and explore new options such as making your own matryoshka doll in Russia or creating your own marionette in Prague.

A few of the biggest challenges with planning a trip for multiple generations is:

Keeping everyone interested in the program- I'm bored is the last thing a parent wants to hear on a $30,000 trip. Our goal is to find out as much as possible about each traveler. Though the parents are paying for the trip and will ultimately have the final say on what will be planned, we still want to understand what the children like and more importantly dislike!
Finding a hotel with connecting rooms or multiple bedrooms- With all the new hotels popping up across Eastern & Central Europe and Russia, we are finding more and more options for family accommodations. A few of the hotels even stock the hotel rooms with games, toys and if need be a crib (best bet for this is the Four Seasons in Prague- they know how to make a kid (& parent) happy).
Keeping within the budget- We understand that planning a trip for the entire family can be quite expensive. Our consultants are experts in cutting costs and helping you save a few dollars! For the 2009 season, we developed a new program called "Go Green". This program not only promotes the environment but also saves you money. Our Go Green programs promote the use of public transportation, such as the metro, bus or taxi, instead of using private cars. This in turn saves the traveler about $500-800 per day and more importantly helps to save the environment.

So when you begin putting together your family travels this year, think about Exeter. We are your one stop shop for family fun.

Finding Tranquility in Prague

2009-05-22T12:25:00.002-04:00

While touring Prague last summer, we found ourselves in the very crowded Old Town Square around lunch. There were charming cafes everywhere but it appeared that all the outdoor seating was taken. I was with a Prague resident who told me she had just the place to go. I must confess I was quite disappointed when she lead me into a dark hallway of the U Prince hotel and got onto an elevator. It was so beautiful outside, the last place I wanted to be was in a dark air conditioned hotel restaurant. I was pleasantly surprised when the elevator doors opened to the outside and a set of stairs. We climbed the stairs and I gasped as I looked around and realized I had a 360 degree view of Old Town and the rest of Prague before me. The rooftop terrace had seating for about forty people and most tables had umbrellas to shade you from the sun. After being seated and looking across all the red terra cotta tiles, I realized I had a clear view to the castle district.

The menu was lengthy with a good mix of traditional Czech specialties and continental food. Of course, all of the food tasted even better when matched with the Czech beer, Pilsner Urquell. After lunch we took advantage of the view and captured some gorgeous pictures of the area. We then descended back down to the town square. Instantly we were engulfed by the crowds and for an instance we debated about retreating back to our new found sanctuary.

It’s Cold Outside!

2009-05-19T11:31:00.002-04:00

It was February and I was in Russia!

Most people that know this think I am stark raving mad. Who in their right mind goes touring in Russia in February?

Well, you might have to be a little crazy but more importantly you need REALLY GOOD footwear and thermal socks (these will quickly become your best friend's). Of course while your packing the socks don’t forget a good overcoat. It doesn’t have to be a sable or mink though you will see plenty of those in Russia during the winter. A good hiking jacket will work but you will need long thermals to keep the lower nethers warm if your coat doesn’t extend further south than your waist. And of course a hat…..a silly looking woolly tam that you can pull down over your ears works well but I can almost guarantee you will come home with a Russian style fur hat with flaps. Which looks sillier? – you can be the judge of that but the fur (real and synthetic) hats with ear flaps are everywhere in Russia and work a treat.

Once you have the right clothing the rest is easy. Russia in winter is simply magical. It can snow almost every day, several times a day or just all day. A blanket of white covers everything and you expect Dr Zhivago to come strolling across the park at any moment. The gilded domes of churches and the gold filigree on palace gates shines in stark contrast to the milky skies and snow covered trees and ground.

Is it really that cold – yes, you’d better believe it is, especially when you get away from the cities and towns and out into the countryside, but somehow the fact that you are in Russia in the middle of winter makes the searing cold perfectly fine. After all isn’t that what you expected?

You won’t want to walk too far but the scene will beckon you to stroll through parks and along streets watching children slide down the snow covered hillocks or being pulled along on sleds behind their parents. Of course not everyone has time for fun and as often as not that sled will be carrying the weekly shopping. Horse drawn sleighs are common place – in the countryside anyway. While they are there for the tourists there are so few tourists that they are really a means of daily transport for the locals. In some rural locales you either ride in a sleigh or propel yourself on cross country skis.

Yes, the city streets are often slushy and only half their normal width with snow accumulated on either side of the road but canals are spectacularly frozen over (even the major rivers carry a surprising amount of ice at this time of the year) and parks glisten in the little sun that makes its way to the frozen earth.

Don’t ever hesitate to travel to Russia in winter. It is a completely different world and the beauty far outweighs any inconvenience. A bonus - you will have the museums almost to yourself. And guess what? – the Russians love heating! You will never be so happy to walk outside into that cold crisp air.

Trogir

2009-04-21T11:59:00.001-04:00

One of the most adorable cities in Croatia is also one that is often overlooked. Located along the Dalmatian coast, the town of Trogir is absolutely fascinating, with a culture that was created under Greek, Roman and Venetian influence. When visiting, you may notice that pretty much every window and every doorway in Trogir is a piece of art.

Trogir is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and can easily be done as a day trip from Split. One of my absolute favorite sites was the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, a Roman Catholic cathedral that is the most imposing monument of Trogir. Bearing a Romanesque façade, the cathedral was built between the 12th and 17th century and is part of the town’s history.

Our group was lucky enough to have Ivo for a guide in Split; and wow, did he treat us nicely! After showing us around this exquisite Cathedral, he excused himself and basically vanished through a door in the back. We were all still busy looking around and admiring the cathedral when we looked up… and there was our guide playing the church’s huge pipe organ – which is centuries old! It was absolutely beautiful and I have to confess, it brought tears to my eyes.

In addition to admiring the town’s beauty, when you do make it to Trogir, please make sure to take a leisure walk around the city streets and buy one of their super cheap, yet delicious ice cream cones. I recommend you try the Kinder Egg flavor – yum!

Go for the Unknown...

2009-04-07T11:43:00.005-04:00

Most of us want to be able to say that we traveled the world, right? Well, I know I do but it seems that I may be my own obstacle. It seems that in the last few years, I have been planning trips to the same places over and over and over again (the beach!). I think most of us find that ONE place in the world (Mexico, Paris, London, etc.) that feels comfortable. Feels relaxing. Feels like home. Unfortunately, this process will not enable us to see the world.

My message today is get out there- see the world! Venture beyond your comfort zones and plan a trip to an exotic, off the beaten track place such as Estonia or even better Georgia (and I mean the country, not the state). When I first joined Exeter about 6 years ago, I couldn't even point out most of our destinations on a map. Now, I can tell you where they are and more importantly why you should see them.

Be one of those exclusive travelers that is able to sit at a table and talk about a trip that no-one else has been on or even thought of. Go beyond the ordinary and see the extraordinary.

Lake Bled – the Undiscovered Gem...

2009-04-03T16:28:00.001-04:00

Slovenia seems to slide under the radar for most people traveling to central Europe. If you ask anyone brave enough to guess they will usually assume it is one of the previously war torn countries of the Balkans but most people will have no clue as to its whereabouts or its existence.

But Slovenia is an absolute gem. Hidden between Austria and Croatia it offers some of the most gorgeous scenery to be found and is worth a stop in any itinerary. A short 35 minute flight from Vienna (or 90 minute drive from Zagreb) takes you to Ljubljana the capital of Slovenia. But the brightest point in the gem is Lake Bled.

A dreary day will provide dramatic views as the clouds form a table cloth over the mountains but on a clear sunny day you are surely in for a treat. This is the stuff of postcards! The Julian Alps loom high over the lake and when conditions are right the lake traps them and reflects the majestic image on the calm surface.

While summer is more likely to guarantee better weather, the spring and fall mean less crowds. Strolling along the lake side with this magnificent backdrop will forever be remembered.

And there is more to do than just stroll and gaze at the breathing scenery. A medieval castle, complete with drawbridge and moat and that dates back to 1004, keeps watch from the top of the cliffs on the north shore and is worth a visit. In the courtyard you will find Dickensian stores with artists who still practice traditional manual printing techniques with a wooden press. Warm summer nights often feature classical concerts under perfect star lit skies.

The other main attraction here sits in the middle of the lake on Slovenia’s only natural island – the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Mary. A Pletna carries you across the lake and 99 stone steps (or a more gentle rampway) take you up to the church. It is traditional for grooms to carry their new brides up the 99 steps to ensure a happy marriage and fun to watch them try. Once inside the church ringing the bell will fulfill one of your wishes – only one wish per ring please!

End the day with a delicious sundae or ice cold Zlatorog (the local beer) at one of the local sidewalk cafes and as you watch the world go by you will understand how you happened upon one of the lesser known but remarkable sites of central Europe.

Manto in Prague....

2009-03-31T17:42:00.006-04:00

When I visited Prague last November, one of the most pleasurable experiences I had was the visit to a glass artist’s manor and gallery. Manto’s work will definitely wow you and, trust me, you will have an even more amazing time hanging out with him and his wife.

I joined a group of ladies that were visiting the manor on that day. We even got to see a video of how he works on the glass – he does it so naturally you would think it is that easy! But the best part was towards the end, when, after drinks (for inspiration!), we all got to make our own piece of art. Manto will walk you through what is needed to have one of the most personable souvenirs you can bring back from your trip to Prague. And with at risk of sounding pretentious… mine turned out beautiful and it is now on display in my house. And, of course, at the end you get to autograph his artist wall.

I also had a chance to visit his gallery a week before the grand opening! The gallery is located in a baroque house in old Prague, within walking distance of the Mandarin Oriental hotel where I was staying. The gallery holds some of his most fantastic work, and is very much worth checking out.

Manto is definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience!

Food in Russia...

2009-03-27T11:55:00.014-04:00

Prior to my first trip to Russia, I was so excited to get there and see this amazing country, but on the inside, I was quite nervous about one thing—the food. I don’t think I’m a picky eater, but after comparing my diet with those I work with…I am extremely picky. As you know, Russia is known for its caviar and vodka-two things that I do NOT enjoy. After my first meal, which included both of those things, I couldn’t help but think…it’s going to be a long 7 days!

I did finally find something I liked- Pelmeni. Pelmeni are amazing dumplings filled with pork or beef. YUM! Once I discovered these marvelous little balls of dough, I think I ordered them at every meal. A very close second to the Pelmeni was a starter we had while out in the country at one of our recommended restaurants- Podvorye. Podvorye is a cute wooden cabin in the village of Pavlovsk with outstanding food. We sat down at our table and were immediately served vodka. I politely declined. Next thing I know they placed the most beautiful tomatoes down on the table. But they weren’t just tomatoes-they had this awesome garlic, cheese and herb mixture spread on top. I could have eaten just those for lunch. Too bad, I had to share.

So as you can see, I ended up faring pretty well in the food department….who needs caviar and vodka when you have pelmeni and tomatoes!

Quick Tasting along the Fjords

2009-03-24T16:27:00.002-04:00

I recently enjoyed a day exploring the Norwegian Fjords by traveling via Norway in a Nutshell. This full day journey, involving trains, ferries and a bus will delight any one with its breathtaking views of the fjords. Tiny villages, some consisting of only two or three homes, dot the coastline. Occasionally, I would spot a lone house perched on a cliff and wonder how they survive so isolated.

Countless waterfalls plunge into the sea. The captain of our ferry pulled up along a waterfall and everyone was served a cold, sparkling glass of water. It was the best water I ever tasted but, I must admit, I enjoyed a different drink along the journey even more...

We had a nice stop in Flam (a gorgeous town in Norway) for forty five minutes before continuing on. There were several buildings surrounding the port and when we wandered past the restaurant and souvenir shop we could not believe our eyes when we spotted a brewery.

The Aegir Brewery is a stave designed, barn-like building. The interiors featured wood carvings everywhere and stone floors as if a Viking designed it himself. At the bar, we were delighted to meet the bartender/owner and discover he is a fellow American from Buffalo. He presented us with a tasting board of six micro-brews. With only about thirty minutes before our departure we did our best to sit back and enjoy each sip. The Indian Pale Ale was the clear winner in our group. We would have loved to have spent the whole afternoon there but, alas, we must continue on.

Best Time to Travel...

2009-03-20T16:49:00.001-04:00

Everyone always wants to go to St. Petersburg during the White Nights Festival (May 15- July 15th), Munich during Oktoberfest, and Croatia during the summer months but I am here to tell you that I have done it and if you do not like crowds (like the one you see here of people waiting hours to enter the Hermitage Museum), you will not want to be in these places at these times! I have been to St. Petersburg over 10 times and I must say that some of my most enjoyable times have been during the winter months. Mind you, I live in Florida so Russia in the winter is a BIG step out of my comfort zone but well worth it.

We always think that we have to be part of an epic moment to have a memory but I can assure you that whether you see Catherine Palace July 1st or January 1st, you will still be impressed. Better yet, don't you want to be able to walk through the Old Town of Dubrovnik on your own- not with 10,000 of your not-so-close friends? Europe, as do most places, has its high season (when airfare and hotel rates are through the roof) during the summer months (May- September).

If you want to save some money, not have to fight with crowds and ultimately have an island such as Hvar to yourself then I suggest booking your trips during the less peak times, such as October- April.

What’s a Foodie to do at an Airport?

2009-03-17T14:16:00.000-04:00

I think we can all agree that eating inside or anywhere near an airplane is, to put it mildly, an unpleasant experience. On domestic flights in the US, I feel outright insulted when the flight attendants offer to sell me a pre-packaged snack. I would not want it even if it was free. Obviously, on transatlantic flights you get hungry and I admit that I have eaten my share of the “chicken or beef” dinners. I do so as fast as I can so as not to expose the meal to the germ-filled air being circulated through the aircraft. Does that sound neurotic or reasonable?

The airports usually do not offer anything better than fast-food chains or candy stores. You can imagine my surprise and joy when I recently flew through Munich and fell on an organic bakery. As I was wandering through the airport trying to kill time, I saw what I at first thought a mirage - beautiful huge loafs of artisanal sourdough bread lined up above a counter full of fresh vegetables. The walls around were covered with inscriptions spelling bread in several languages, from German and English to Italian, Hebrew, Arabic or Russian. And above it all: Aran Bakery and Coffeehouse.

The nice man behind the counter put together a wonderful open-face sandwich for me with a delicious spread of fresh cucumber and chives. You can choose from many different spreads, or order a soup and end the meal with some of their pastry creations. I never felt more civilized at an airport than when I was delaying the dreaded departure for the gate and savoring each sip of my wonderful foamy latte.

Ninety Nine Multicoloured Balloons Fly By...

2009-03-06T15:27:00.004-05:00

You must do it once in your life. This was my second time but it may as well have been the first. The first was in Palm Springs but that experience, while exhilarating, pales in comparison to my second “first” time.

We woke before dawn. In the darkness of the room it was impossible to tell what time it was but the alarm was buzzing and the alarm clock never lies. You see there were no windows in the room and at the flick of the switch you had no idea if it was four a.m. or four p.m. But a night or two in a cave is a story for another time. My feet hit the cold stone floor- and it WAS very cold. Later that day there would be a blizzard but as we peeked out into the dark morning, stars twinkled in the sky as the crisp cold air enveloped us.

A 30 minute ride took us out of town and to an area that could have been in the desert west. As the sun barely touched the horizon the outline of an old horse drawn cart sat on a ridge just above us. And then the whoosh! The powerful noise and heat were overwhelming, exciting and welcoming as the warmth sent the cold air wafting away.

On the ground lay the fabric to reach from top to bottom of a nine-story building. An organized web of ropes and lines reached along to a wicker basket the Wicked Witch of the West could have filled with 200 Totos.

We met our fellow travelers over a cup of steaming coffee and a biscotti. Australians, Spaniards and Japanese made up the majority of flyers that day. The excitement was palpable and when it came time to clamber over the side of the gigantic picnic basket that hovers below the balloon the handlers had to hold the over-enthusiastic among us to avoid the rush. Every possible assistance is given when climbing in but you have to have at least some agility and therefore the trip is not for everyone.

In no time at all a very slight shake of the basket, a burst of hot air into the balloon and we had left the ground and the total silence of the Cappadocian morning was deafening. It was spectacular – more spectacular than words can ever describe. The flight takes you over the inaccessible valleys and canyons of the region. The pilots are incredible and adeptly maneuver the balloon dropping down to almost touch the canyon floor and sides and then soaring aloft again over scenery that belongs on another planet. There are always other balloons in the area, sometimes lots of them. Seeing them in this ethereal setting makes you feel as you though are in a movie.

The light changes as the sun rises into the sky and all too soon the pilot has decided on the landing site – this does depend on the weather conditions but is always a safe procedure. The fact that you actually have to crouch down into the basket during landing should not concern anyone. It is the balloon equivalent to fastening your seat belt for landing. The basket lightly brushes the dusty ground and comes to a stop and it is over. Champagne and orange juice are shared and you receive the statutory certificate proving that you have been there and done that. But you will not need a certificate tucked away in the back of a drawer to remind you of one of the most fantastic experiences you will have during your travels. The experience comes at a price you will not regret it.

The Estates Theater in Prague

2009-03-03T14:52:00.001-05:00

While visiting Prague over the summer, I had the opportunity to visit the famous Estates Theater-where Mozart performed Don Giovanni. The theater is beautiful and a definite must see while visiting the city. More than the theaters beauty or history, the real excitement for me was being taken around by the maestro of the theater, Mr. Pavel Vondruska-a sweet man who just makes the experience that much better.

Mr. Vondruska is a famous actor and musician in the Czech Republic who has starred in numerous feature films such as the Oscar winning film-Kolja. Pavel's career started many years ago as the conductor for the Estates Theater. Pavel invites his guests to admire the beauty of the theater and to fall in love with it- just as he has!

After he showed us around, we went backstage to see what happens behind the scenes. At the end of the tour, he took us to his little secret place-a room where the actor and actresses go after the performances. There was, of course, a piano and he sat down and played one last piece for us. Not only were there goose bumps but tears when he was finished.

Mr. Vondruska hugged each of us as we walked out and it is a memory I will forever have in my mind. It truly was a fantastic experience and I recommend anyone who goes to Prague to do it…it’s one you will never forget!

Climbing my way to the top...of the Oslo Opera House...

2009-02-27T14:13:00.002-05:00

I must confess, I am not a huge opera fan but I was blown away by the design of the new Oslo Opera House. Less than a year old, the Opera House is the pride and joy of Norwegians and rightfully so. This masterpiece of architecture is located on the edge of the Oslofjord, appearing to rise out of the water. On either side of the large glass atrium, the roof slopes down right to the ground allowing people to walk up the angled slopes to the rooftop. Here they can witness breathtaking views of the city and Oslofjord. Many people take full advantage of this, even having picnics on the roof on sunny days.

Inside the Opera House is no less stunning, featuring a minimalistic design. The walls are a study in contrasting textures, one being stark white with numerous geometric shapes to represent glaciers and ice crystals and the opposite wall is textured curving oak with various finishes. Another wall is floor to ceiling glass, offering great views of Oslofjord.
There are numerous stages, vary in size. The main theater features oak walls and orange cushioned seats, which is in stark contrast to its stage curtain which resembles crinkled tin foil.

The Opera House also features a fantastic restaurant, Argent. The restaurant is designed all in white, with light fixtures streaming down from the ceiling that change colors ever few minutes. The food and service is top notch!

The Opera House will be set in an even more spectacular setting once the underground tunnel is completed and the six lane highway situated right next to the opera house will be re-directed underground. A park will be designed in the place of the existing highway.

The Oslo Opera House is truly a masterpiece of architectural design.

The Hidden Natural Wonders of Eastern Europe

2009-02-24T13:59:00.001-05:00

The New7Wonders Foundation, which focuses on the documentation and conservation of monuments of international importance worldwide, has started a campaign called ‘The Official New7Wonders of Nature’ in which some 260 natural sites are competing to make it to the ‘Top 77” which are separated in 7 categories such as ‘Mountains and Volcanoes’, ‘Islands’, ‘Seascapes’, and ‘Caves, rock formations, and valleys’. Only 3 candidates in each category (a total of 21) will be short-listed until finally, in 2011, the winners in each of the seven categories will be declared. Everyone has a chance to vote for their preferred natural site on the foundation’s website where a live ranking is posted and regularly updated.

Interestingly, besides popular natural wonders and tourist attractions like the Galapagos Islands, the Niagara Falls, and the Great Barrier Reef, many “new” sites, tucked away in countries which until recently were generally closed to tourists, are still largely unknown and waiting to be discovered by foreign travelers. Moreover, visiting these spectacular natural sites also offers authentic cultural experiences and some remarkable historic monuments. The Belogradchik Rocks are also the site of an impressive medieval fortress, while the Lake Ohrid (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is famous for the historic towns and monasteries dotting its shores.

Here are the natural sites in Central and Eastern Europe which are currently occupying the top 11 spots in some of the categories:

Landscapes and Ice Formations – the Masurian Lake District in north-eastern Poland
Mountains and Volcanoes – the Vlasic Mountain in central Bosnia and Herzegovina
Caves, Rock Formations, and Valleys – the Belogradchik Rock Formations in north-western Bulgaria, the Djavolja Varos (Devil’s Town) Rock Formations in southern Serbia, and the Pravcice Gate Rock Formation in Bohemia in the Czech Republic;
Forests, National Parks, and Nature Reserves – the Bialowieza Primeval Forest located in the border area between Poland and Belarus, the Black Forest (Schwarzwald) in south-western Germany, and the Retezat National Park in central Romania
Lakes, Rivers, and Waterfalls – the Danube, the Lake Ohrid between Albania and Macedonia and Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia

Time does not stand still...

2009-02-13T12:35:00.002-05:00

You can imagine the worries I sometimes face being that I work for a company that sells and promotes luxury products. In times like these, where people are cutting back and scaling down, I sometimes think- how can we stay afloat? The answer is easy, time is not something you can save or cut back on.

You can wait until next year to buy that new Mercedes but you cannot wait a year to take your wife on that 25th anniversary cruise around the world. Time does not stand still and because of this travel does not either! Since we all have just one life to live, we all must make it a priority to fill it with as many experiences and opportunities as possible- in good and bad times.

Travel is invigorating, uplifting, and most of all travel is a shared experience between families, friends and cultures- what could be more rewarding? You may need to cut a lot of things out of your life during tough times but please keep traveling.

You may not look back 30 years from now and be upset that you switched from premium cable to basic but you will be upset that you did not take your wife on that 25th anniversary cruise.

The Moscow Metro

2009-02-10T12:38:00.000-05:00

The Moscow Metro is the second most used metro system in the world. It is also famous for its incomparable beauty. A couple of weeks ago a friend of mine asked me: “I was impressed by the metro in Paris and Madrid – so grand! But I hear that Moscow’s is the prettiest. Is it true?”

Well, if you are asking my opinion: Yes, it is. The Moscow Metro is absolutely magnificent. Each station is incredibly unique- many of them with outstanding ornate design. And there is a little bit for every taste: From sculptures, mosaics or frescoes to super modern stations. It’s absolutely fascinating!

Another interesting aspect about taking the Moscow Metro is seeing how the Russians are so nonchalant about all that beauty surrounding them! Maybe the biggest metropolitan city in Europe is too busy to take a second look.

And exactly for that reason you should be careful while in the Metro. The Russians show no mercy when they are in a hurry! When I was there in November, I felt like the people in our group could have easily got lost from one another if we were not paying attention. It is very important to be determined and move quickly through the crowd. And once you are inside the actual station, wait until the interval between trains and you will have a little bit of time to admire the beauty, take a look around, and get good pictures… Until then the next train comes.

Prague with kids...

2009-02-06T20:12:00.001-05:00

I have so much respect for parents who have the stamina and patience to travel with their small children. Dividing your attention between bags, strollers, passports and children who run around, throw temper tantrums or annoy other travelers, seems like no vacation at all. I have to trust that experiencing a new destination and seeing it through your child’s eyes must outweigh all the above. Here is my contribution to make your trip easier: a few tips for touring Prague with your children.

Prague is so picturesque that your kids may at first believe you took them to Disney Land. Even the usual sites like the Prague Castle, the Charles Bridge and the Jewish Quarter are so impressive that your child will surely enjoy them as much as you will. But when you are up at the Castle, you may want to stop by at the Toy Museum. This wonderful museum has a large collection of toys from Ancient Greece, through medieval wooden toys to the first barbies. If you have daughters that like sparkly things, you should not miss the Loreto, a monastery near the Castle, with a nice collection of heavily adorned ritual objects including the famous diamond monstrance. Before you leave this side of the Vltava River, you could take a short funicular ride to the Petrin Hill, a wonderful public park where you will find a replica of the Eiffel Tower (made for the World Exhibition in 1891) and a small Mirror Maze – it never gets old seeing yourself in various distorting mirrors.

Two sites for the more scholarly children: the Technical Museum on the Castle side of the town and the National Museum on the other side. The Technical Museum has several collections but the most impressive one is the one about transportation as it contains real historic planes, steam locomotives, cars and bicycles. The National Museum, located on top of the Wenceslas Square, is despite its impressive and serious neo-renaissance building probably the quirkiest museum in Prague. While they have many interesting temporary exhibitions, their main focus has always been the Natural History and Anthropology. Whenever I went there as a child, I felt transported back to times when geeky European scientists and explorers traveled the continents and brought their exotic discoveries back to the enthusiastic public eager to learn about the far worlds. The most popular item in the zoological collection is the huge whale skeleton that hangs from the ceiling above the displays of other animals. Although I find the museum interesting, be warned that the zoological collection consists mainly of dissected animals, so it may not be suitable for every child. The Prague Zoo is a good alternative and a trip there can be made by boat from the city center.

What to Pack?

2009-02-03T15:08:00.003-05:00

Generally, I always try to pack for a trip days (if not weeks) before, so I’m not scrambling at the last minute. The one thing that always holds me up is -“what shoes do I bring?” I love shoes, but let’s face it…you can’t wear just any shoes while in Eastern Europe or Russia. Although when you get over there and see what the natives wear, you might think differently.

With the cobblestone streets and the amount of walking you do, it’s best to go with comfort over looks. I did just that when shopping for warm, slip resistant shoes for my trip.

While in Ukraine and Russia last December, I was prepared for any type of weather (or so I thought). After starting my trip in Kiev (with no problems), I went to St. Petersburg where the weather was cold and snowy, though absolutely beautiful! On our day out to Catherine Palace and Pavlovsk, I fell twice (yes, twice!). Can you say tourist? So much for slip resistant shoes. I was completely embarrassed. I couldn’t figure out how our guides walked around in 2 inch stiletto boots when I could barely get around with my safe for grandma, military proof, said to be slip resistant, FLAT boots. I guess it helps that they do it quite often.

And then it happened—one of our guides went down. I felt so bad for her, but at the time I was secretly happy to know that it could happen to anyone.

My Christmas Box from Szentendre...

2009-01-30T11:38:00.000-05:00

When in Budapest, a great place to visit (and shop – which I love!) is just a 30-minute drive from the city center: the town of Szentendre, where many artists work and live. The town is adorable, and there is a ton of interesting stuff to see and do there.

One of the most interesting things about shopping in Szentendre is that many times you can buy straight from the artist. So as I was strolling around (I was looking to buy a purse), I happen to see an artist carving a box that would be for sale later. Fascinated by how easy that was for him, I went into his shop to check out some of his work.

He had a lot of interesting wood work. Some of it was his, some were not. I had already selected some of his work to buy when I caught myself eyeing this very cute Christmas-themed music box. As I debated whether to buy it or not (the box was not his personal work), the artist offered to carve whatever I wanted on the box. I just loved the idea, and had him carve my name, my husband’s name, the town name and the year. It took him no longer than a minute to do it (I barely had time to take a picture!).

And before I knew it, I had such a personal Christmas box! Oh, and by the way, I also ended up finding a great purse!

The historic Fortresses of the Balkans

2009-01-27T16:55:00.000-05:00

I guess the fascination with fortresses comes from my childhood filled with books like ‘Ivanhoe’ by Walter Scott and ‘Crusaders’ by Henryk Sienkiewicz. Having the chance to travel extensively through the Balkans and study this region’s long and often violent history has been a real eye-opener in terms of the abundance and diversity of medieval fortifications in the area. This is not surprising, considering the region’s geographic location between Europe and Asia and at the epicenter of centuries-long clashes for political, economic, and religious domination.

When the Roman Empire conquered the Balkan Peninsula, its legions built a network of fortified garrisons located at strategic points on the borders, alongside the main trade routes (such as the Via Egnatia which crossed the entire peninsula from the Adriatic coast to Byzantium), and near mountain passes with commercial and military importance. Some of these ancient forts later grew to become settlements and towns which still exist; others were destroyed during the following ‘barbaric’ invasions; while others still were used as the foundations for later medieval fortifications.

During its greatest territorial expansion, the Byzantine Empire incorporated most of the Balkans and many of the fortresses still dotting the region today were erected in this period. Most impressive, without a doubt, were the defenses of the city of Constantinople itself. Back then, the capital of the Byzantine Empire was surrounded by thick walls on all sides which protected it from attacks from both land and sea, and which withstood numerous sieges before the Ottomans, using massive cannons, finally took the city. When visiting Istanbul, a tour of the land portion of the medieval walls, which is very well preserved, gives a unique historic perspective of this great city. For anyone interested in the epic siege of Constantinople by the Ottoman army and its dramatic fall, the book ‘1453’ by Roger Crowley makes a great reading.

Elsewhere throughout the region, impressive medieval fortresses are waiting to be discovered. Few of them are as well preserved as the castles in Germany, France, or England simply because once the Ottomans had the Balkan Peninsula conquered, they, with some exceptions, had no use for the fortifications which were either destroyed (in order not to be used as bases for local insurgencies) or fell into disrepair. Regions which at that time were under Austro-Hungarian or Venetian control, like Transylvania in Romania or the Dalmatian Coast in Croatia and Montenegro, had their castles and fortresses not only maintained, but also modernized and expanded. In Romania, Sighisoara’s Old Town and the fortified churches in Biertan and Prejmer are not to be missed. In Croatia, Dubrovnik’s famous Old Town has a jewel of a medieval fortress, but the Venetian forts of Zadar, Sibenik, and Trogir are also nicely preserved as are the walls of Kotor and Budva in Montenegro further south along the Adriatic coast.

In Bulgaria, Serbia, Macedonia, and Albania, which remained under Ottoman domination for centuries, only the largest and most strategic strongholds were maintained and still survive. In Bulgaria, these are the majestic Baba Vida fortress on the Danube River and the Tsarevets Castle Hill in Tarnovo. In Serbia’s capital Belgrade, the Kalemegdan is a true medieval citadel located on a hill at the confluence of the Danube and the Sava rivers. In Albania, the Kruje Fortress successfully withstood numerous sieges before being taken by the Ottomans and the citadels of Gjirokastra and Berati are very much worth a visit for anyone interested in the local history and culture.

In summary, one does not have to be a medieval warfare fanatic in order to pay a visit to some of the impressive fortresses scattered around the Balkan Peninsula. Unlike other historic and architectural monuments like palaces and monasteries, these sites, which were often the stages of bloody battles, give a different perspective of the people who once inhabited these areas and for whom defending their families and homes from invaders was simply a way of life.

Russian Food? Yummy!

2009-01-23T13:14:00.000-05:00

When people travel to Russia, the one thing they worry the most about is the food. They want to be reassured that they will be able to eat at Italian, French or other International restaurants where they can feel safe. Yes, there are plenty of those, so if you are a militaristic vegan, vegetarian or just a squeamish fool, go there and eat yourself to boredom. If you are a true foodie, you will search for authentic local restaurants.

Russian cuisine might be slightly heavy, I admit, but then again, what’s wrong with that when you are on vacation? Believe me, you will walk it off at the Hermitage or the vast grounds of Kremlin. While you will get your portion of starch and fat, you will also be surprised about how good Russian vegetables are. I cannot tell you how much I love eating tomatoes in Russia. In the US, unless you buy them at a farmers market, the tomatoes seem to have lost their taste. And the bread, oh the bread! In Russia you will never get the pathetic, see-through, processed sponge people usually eat in America. Instead, every meal is accompanied by rich, dense black or rye bread that is so delicious you will have trouble leaving some room for the main dish.

Next to the home-made dinner with a local family in Suzdal, my all time favorite meal in Russia was at the Chekhov Restaurant in St. Petersburg. It started with a wide array of appetizers: lots of pickled vegetables, bread with lard, herring and sauerkraut with cranberries and apples. All of this was served with their special horseradish vodka, the multiple shots of which make it now harder to remember what I ordered afterwards. I believe I was so full that I only had borsch which I love to eat Ukrainian style with tons of sour cream. My Russian colleagues ordered a simple peasant dish – potatoes and mushrooms (a good option for vegetarians) and I am willing to bet that my colleague Lori had pelmeni (I don’t think she ever ordered anything else the entire time in Russia).

By the end of the trip, I became a huge fan of Russian cuisine. So much so, that upon returning home, I found a little Russian grocery store that has become my go-to place for bread and I always keep a bag of pelmeni in my freezer.

Mary Had a Little......Smalahove!!!

2009-01-20T12:41:00.000-05:00

In a side street not far from Oslo City Hall is a store front that is reminiscent of an old town Main Street butcher. With an awning out front and a full sized stuffed reindeer in the window, an assortment of vacuum packed and fresh meats looks incredibly appetizing and is displayed in a way rarely seen in today’s refrigerated counters and sliding glass fronted cooler units.

Inside is a treasure trove of intriguing meats hanging from the ceiling, jellies, jams and cheeses all made from traditional Norwegian recipes and most using the best of local produce. For the traveler you can find an unusual souvenir in the form of vacuum packed dried reindeer meat - probably best if not served around Christmas to avoid shrieks of horror that Rudolph made it to the plate. This delicacy is a little strong but delicious when served on crackers with a slice of tomato and cucumber to cut the gamey taste (my own recipe).

You could spend an hour here quite easily exploring the shelves trying to figure out what everything is but one of the store’s best assets is its owner Eirik Bræk who delights in taking the time to explain and let you sample much of what he sells. Some of the cheese will have your nose and taste buds running wild (but you must try it) but Eirik is truly in his element when he introduces you to Smalahove.

This traditional Norwegian delicacy is generally enjoyed around Christmas and is made from a sheep’s head. How it gets to the stage whereby it can be eaten is a little stomach-churning – the fleece and skin are torched and the brain removed (a good thing - I think!). The head is salted and dried and then boiled for about 3 hours. Mashed potatoes are the side of choice. Not surprisingly the dish was originally eaten by peasants but as happens all too often, if you want to impress in this modern age, have Eirik prepare a batch of Smalahove for you to serve. Or even better allow his catering service to serve them for you.

The dish is now prepared using only the heads of lambs since the EU decided that older sheep may be susceptible to diseases that could (though never have) be transmitted to humans.
And just how do you eat Smalahove? One half of the head is one serving and you should start with the ear and eye which are best eaten warm (lots of fat here). Then work around the skull usually making your way from front to back. The tongue is truly considered to be the best part though Eirik says arguments can be quite heated since many considered the eyes to be the best – see no evil, speak no evil!

There is no better place to explore Norwegian food culture than Fenaknoken and almost certainly no-one better to explain it than Eirik. Be sure to drop by – it will be your most talked about stop in Oslo!

Rainy Day in Sunny Hvar!

2009-01-16T18:14:00.000-05:00

While in Croatia last month I had the opportunity to take the ferry over to Hvar. The island is known as the “sunniest spot in Europe” but as my luck would have it, it began to rain cats and dogs as soon as we set foot on the island. We attempted to do some sightseeing but gave up after visiting the Franciscan Monastery and tucked into the Adriana for a delicious lunch of tomato soup. After drying off, warming up and refueling we decided to brave the elements once again.

Mother Nature was not on our side as we attempted to see the Arsenal. It began to rain so hard the steps to the entrance became flooded as a river gushed down the stairs. We would have turned back except we had been promised there was a woman inside who was selling lavender knick knacks. Money had been burning a whole in our pockets all day and we could not take it any longer. All of us determined women joined hands and formed a human chain slowly ascending the treacherous waterfall. Our efforts were rewarded when we not only found the woman but also discovered a small bar serving great Croatian wine! This poor Croatian woman didn’t know what hit her as we stormed her display and scooped up everything in sight; lavender oils, lavender sachets, lavender doted chocolate and dried lavender.

After drying off a little again and enjoying our drinks, it was time to head back to the ferry. And although I cannot agree Hvar is the sunniest spot, I can agree it is a charming island and I now have the best scented sheets around.

Plitvice Lakes National Park

2009-01-13T17:03:00.000-05:00

Croatia is truly one of my favorite destinations – such a relaxing country, with delicious food and breathtaking natural beauty. When Jade, Leigh and I were there last November, we originally arrived in Zagreb and, afterwards, we drove down to Split. Although flying between the two cities is an option, I definitely recommend driving – mostly because you will have a chance to make a stop at the Plitvice Lakes National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is totally worth all the fuss about it.

The park consists of 16 lakes inter-connected by several waterfalls, covering an area of over 70,000 acres! If you are a nature and scenery lover, you can easily spend an entire day there. I cannot tell you how many absolutely magnificent pictures I took – and I still think they do not do the park justice.

We were lucky to have such a GORGEOUS day with no rain or clouds. I say that not only because of my obsession with taking pictures, but the walking path – while very pleasant – would not have been so effortless under rain. Some of the paths are a little uneven, get slippery when wet and for the most part there are no handrails. In addition to that, some of the footbridges are made of logs - so make sure you wear comfortable walking shoes!

Our enjoyable walk ended by a lake and a boat ride followed – such an incredible view! At the end of the ride, we had to go up a lot of steps – so make sure you are prepared to get a workout! Oh, and do not forget to take some water with you.

Best Hotel in the World!

2009-01-02T16:44:00.000-05:00

A few months ago I had the pleasure of staying at the best hotel in the world (in my opinion)! The staff was top notch, the service was impeccable and the view from my room was unbelievable. Where was I? Budapest. And what hotel was I staying in............

The Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace!

With my job, I am lucky enough to travel the world and stay in some of the most luxurious and sophisticated hotels in the world such as the Ritz Carlton in Moscow, The Mandarin Oriental in Prague, and the Sacher in Vienna. Though every hotel deserves its awards and high remarks, I must say that the Gresham Palace is the best that I have seen thus far. The chandelier as you enter the lobby says it all- exquisite, beautiful and utterly refined!

The staff is so remarkable and on top of everything that they even try and memorize all of their guests schedules. How? I have no idea. For instance, one day I went out and it was raining terribly (I mean my shoes were soaked and my umbrella was of no help). I continued with my day for I had to work but when I returned to the hotel, tired and cold, much to my surprise and excitement the staff had prepared complimentary hot drinks such as coffee, tea, and my favorite hot chocolate (from real chocolate). They just understand the meaning of "customer service" and "pamper your guests".

This hotel prepares for the worst and delivers the best! If you are looking for a top notch hotel in a great European city, I HIGHLY recommend booking a night (or 5) at the Four Seasons Gresham Palace in Budapest.

Understated Luxury on the Rails

2008-12-30T17:52:00.000-05:00

If you have long wished to travel across Central and Eastern Europe in luxury but without the need to dress for dinner each night the solution has arrived in the form of the Danube Express. Launched in 2008 this Hotel on Wheels appeals to anyone with a sense of adventure and a love of trains.

Departures from the train’s home base of Budapest is prefaced with champagne served in the Royal Waiting Room and breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the elegant dining car with the landscapes of Romania, Poland and Slovakia as the backdrop. Imagine waking up to a hot cup of tea or coffee delivered by a smiling cabin attendant as the outskirts of the Bulgarian city of Kazanlak slide by the window.

If you thought that train travel in Europe had to either be a back-packing experience involving a multi-country rail pass and volumes of train time-tables or was restricted to black-tie and ball gowns – think again. The Danube Express brings understated luxury to all who yearn for a private bathroom and the clickety clack of the rails to lull them to sleep each night!

Don’t let the cab drivers spoil your experience in Prague!

2008-12-26T14:12:00.002-05:00

It is painful for me to admit it, but Prague’s reputation as a safe and friendly city suffers due to the rampant overcharging by its cab drivers. Granted, the situation has somewhat improved since the city’s mayor, Pavel Bém, went undercover a few years ago and took a cab disguised as an Italian tourist (with a fake goatee, lots of gel in his hair and expensive sunglasses on his nose). He expected to be overcharged, but was utterly shocked when the cabbie with a disarmingly straight face asked for what was about ten times more than the real fare. Since then, the police have been closely watching and the culprits are fined or have their license suspended. Even still, it is quite common that tourists who do not understand the Czech crown and cannot gage the distances traveled in cab, end up paying outrageously more than they should.

The solution is either taking the city’s efficient public transportation or calling a reliable taxi service. The one that I always use is the AAA. You can call the number 14014, you can even send an SMS or order the service online: http://www.aaataxi.cz/Taxi-order/. The website also allows you to calculate the price of the route you are about to take.

If you cannot wait and need to hail a cab on the spot, which I strongly discourage, you need to be firm, ask for the price in advance and insist that the driver turn on the meter. The maximum price to travel from the city center to the outskirts should not be more than 730CZK/about $40 (does not include waiting- 5CZK per minute).

St. Petersburg: Just a way of life!

2008-12-23T12:53:00.003-05:00

St. Petersburg was a total shock to me, what a beautiful and amazing city! We arrived at the Astoria Hotel where we had views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral just outside our window; the snow covered streets and trees felt just like a scene from Dr. Zhivago! St. Petersburg is a city with an amazing architecture and history! Every sight you visit will give you testimony of the history of the creation of Russia. 

 I grew up thinking that Russians didn’t believe in God, but it was surprising to learn how the church went hand in hand with the emperors throughout history. To the Russians their monasteries and churches (you can see hundreds of onion domes in every city) were as important as their palaces. One can only imagine what wealth these emperors owned to be able to construct such magnificent palaces and how they were influenced by the European masters of their time in architecture and in art.

A visit to the Church on Spilled Blood or to St. Isaac’s Cathedral will leave you speechless, these are true works of art and are comparable to the finest in Italy.    In modern times, I find that the people I met in St. Petersburg are very well educated and have access to the latest in modern technology. The younger generations boast the latest cell phone models, wear the latest in fashion and most of them speak English (very well).

The employees at the hotel were very well dressed and had excellent manners. I had the opportunity of talking with some of them over dinner and found that in general they are looking for a significant other, they dream of a family with children and they also dream of traveling and seeing the world outside of Russia.   I found that to the Russians, a perfect meal will last a couple of hours, sharing the food is just part of the experience, you must make a toast with Vodka while you are eating and it should be a compliment to the guest or to the host. In a typical Russian restaurant, lively music will be the background of hearty meals with the fruits of the region.

I found that Russians are very proud of their heritage, their history, and of their newfound wealth.

Rézkakas

2008-12-16T19:23:00.003-05:00

When I was in Budapest last month, my guide recommended this typical Hungarian restaurant for dinner. I had just arrived from Croatia and wanted to have some great Hungarian food so I decided to go for it.

The restaurant is called Rézkakas and it is about a 15-minute walk from the Four Seasons Gresham, which lucky for me was my home for the night. I have to say: if I did not know Rézkakas was a restaurant (my guide had pointed it out earlier in the day when we drove by it – that’s why the picture is a little blurry) I would have walked right past it.

It’s interesting how their small and discreet entrance brings you into such a beautiful ambiance, with their low lights, live music (violin, cimbalom and bass), and most importantly, their good food!

Even though I always like to try different foods from different countries, I am not so adventurous as to try a lot of different kinds of meats – I normally stick with beef, chicken or fish. However, that night I felt adventurous and decided to have their venison with a blueberry and apple tart and a scrumptious plum sauce. All I can say is WOW on the appetizer and both the main course and desert were amazing! They also have a very nice wine list.

Sitting next to me was an American couple, and between all the “Yums” and “Mmmms”, we started talking. They were also very impressed with the food, and enjoying themselves a lot.

The band played a good part in the overall fun as well. I am not sure how it all started, but at one point the clients would make whistling sounds (anything from imitating birds to REALLY complex sounds) and the violin player would repeat them, right away, on the violin!

Everyone around me seemed to be enjoying themselves so much, I could not help myself – I had to share this little secret. Just make sure to make reservations, or you may not be able to get a table.

Narona

2008-12-11T20:57:00.000-05:00

I was fortunate to be traveling down the southern coast of Croatia last week between Split and Dubrovnik. The main road runs parallel to the coast with its dramatic cliffs dropping down to the Adriatic Sea below. The drive normally takes about four hours but I highly recommend taking a detour, if time allows.

About half way down there is a town just to the east, Narona. Here you will find a fantastic museum of the former ancient city ruled by the Romans in the 2nd century BC. The museum is built over the exact site of the excavations. A temple was discovered in 1995 which included 12 statues. Many other artifacts have also been recovered from the site. You walk over metal grids at times to look down into the original dwellings. Only about five percent of the site has been unearthed. The remaining 95 percent is still covered by homes of residents not ready to pack up their bags!

Next door is a charming little restaurant with a wood burning oven turning out delicious breads and slow cooked meats. Be sure to try the homemade walnut brandy; it will surely give a jolt if you are feeling sluggish after your meal.

As I continue down the coast I was surprised to discover I would have to go through Bosnia to reach Dubrovnik. Prices are much cheaper in Bosnia, so the be sure to make a stop at the market along the way to stock up on wine and chocolates.

Russian Banya- what an experience!

2008-12-11T20:08:00.000-05:00

Upon arrival in Moscow, we loaded our stuff into our minibus and headed out to the Golden Rin g. The day was gorgeous, beautiful weather with snow on the ground… I couldn’t wait to start exploring this amazing area. I must admit the one thing I was looking forward to the most was the infamous Russian Banya.

The hotel we were staying at in the Golden Ring is known for their banyas. So after a long day and finally getting to our hotel, we prepared ourselves for the experience. A Russian banya is an unique ritual--it consists of sitting in a HOT sauna, while getting beaten with birch branches then finishing it off with a jump into a FREEZING pool-sounds fun, right?

A few of my colleagues and I headed over to our private banya for what ended up being one of the nights I will never forget. Once there, the whole process was a little intimidating but we figured while in Russia—do as the Russians. We all entered the sauna after changing into our bathing suits (some choose to go in with only a towel wrapped around them but no-one in our group did!), and determined our Moscow Manager, Constantin, was going to do the honors of being the “beater”. It is a surreal feeling sitting in 100+ degrees while being hit with branches.

When it was my turn to go, I opted to take the chicken route and stood under a bucket of cold water that was poured on me rather than voluntarily jumping into the freezing pool. Nevertheless….I got the drift.

I’m definitely glad I took the plunge and experienced a true Russian Banya. It is something that I think everyone should try out when they visit. Like I mentioned before, while in Russia—do as the Russians!

The Volga Dream – Dreamy or Dreary?

2008-12-10T19:14:00.000-05:00

In my two seasons selling the Volga Dream the most frequently asked question has remained, “Is this boat really as deluxe as they say it is?”

In my personal opinion, the answer is yes. I loved the Volga Dream and had a wonderful experience floating lazily along the Volga River passing elderly men fishing and children throwing rocks along the banks. The sunsets are enough to take your breath away. The staff was tremendously friendly and attentive. The minute I sat down in a lounge chair on the Sun Deck a staff member was at my side asking if I needed a drink or a blanket.

The food was surprisingly tasty – a mix of traditional Russian and European cuisine. The rooms are small like all other Russian river cruisers, but very well appointed. I had my own private bathroom with a glassed in shower, blow dryer and deluxe toiletries. There was a flat screen TV on the wall showing BBC World, Animal Planet (oddly enough) and other global stations. The picture window allowed me to watch the coastline from the comfort of my room. (Main Deck Superior Cabins and above have full windows.)

The only downfall I experienced while onboard was the crowd at the buffet line. The dining room is not that big and tables are quiet close to each other making it slightly hard to navigate. The line at the buffet can get quite long and the close quarters can complicate things. Luckily most meals are plated, so you rarely have to deal with the buffet problem. The cruise operators are working to fix this problem now.

Another common complaint is the lack of activity onboard the ship. Everyone needs to keep in mind that this is not a Regent ship. It is a small vessel (carrying less than 115 passengers) built minimally to navigate through the narrow canals and locks along the Volga River. There is no casino or dance club, but there is a comfortable lounge to sit, socialize and drink as well as library with computers and books to occupy your time. I do not recommend this boat for the super active traveler, but for those who wish to relax and see all that Russia has to offer beyond Moscow and St. Petersburg, the Volga Dream is definitely dreamy.

Moscow’s newest hip hotel: MaMaison Pokrovka Suite Hotel

2008-12-10T17:48:00.000-05:00

Last month I had the opportunity to stay at the Pokrovka Suite Hotel in Moscow . I’ll admit, I went in prepared to hate the location and was a bit skeptical of the hotel itself. It has marketed itself as an all-suite hotel, but also as a design-hotel. Sometimes hotels like this come off as plastic and cheap, and sometimes just plain weird and uncomfortable. The Pokrovka Suite Hotel proved to be a pleasant surprise.

The hotel is located a solid 30 minute walk from Red Square. It’s a 10 – 15 minute walk to the closest metro station, which is on the Garden Ring. This is four (4) stops from Red Square, which then places you in the heart of Moscow. The street that runs in front of the hotel is a one way street leading away from Red Square (toward the Garden Ring) so traffic can sometimes be an issue. The positive aspect of the location is that the hotel is located in an actual neighborhood. This means that there are a variety of restaurants and cafes, all within a short walk from the hotel. The newest hot-spots are still a taxi or metro ride away, but at least you’re not isolated in a business area of the city. 

This is an all-suite hotel, so accommodations range from spacious junior suites all the way to a few extravagant two-bedroom suites. All but the highest category of suites have rather small bathrooms, but excellent amenities. There is quite a bit of modern / contemporary art located throughout the hotel and the elevator wall is a photo story that is different on each floor and is meant to represent the seven stages of life. All photos are from the renowned Czech photographer, Stephan Hon. There is also very contemporary furniture by Guillaume Pichaud (that looks quite uncomfortable but is actually okay) and it’s discreetly for sale throughout the hotel. 

I was worried about over-the-top or even ridiculous décor, but that worry was completely unfounded. The suites have a contemporary style, but are completely comfortable and appropriate, even for the most conservative guests!

Thinking of a self-driving tour of Romania or Bulgaria? Think again!

2008-12-09T16:11:00.000-05:00

Many will agree that exploring a country by private car is an appealing option as it allows for greater freedom, flexibility, and the chance to travel around remote and off-the-beaten-track areas. However, the current state of the roads in Romania and Bulgaria, both of which joined the European Union last year, could discourage even the most adventurous visitors. The latest Travel & Tourism Competitiveness Report published by the World Economic Forum ranks both countries high for their natural and cultural resources but according to the same study the quality of the ground infrastructure in Romania and Bulgaria apparently puts them behind some less developed African and Asian countries. A typical mode of transportation in the rural areas of Romania and Bulgaria can be seen above.

Visitors to this part of the Balkans should be aware that proper highways are only few and the rest of the road network leaves much to be desired. Despite the promises preceding the parliamentary elections in both countries, most major infrastructure projects have been in a standstill following the accusations of mismanagement and corruption regarding the funding provided for these projects by the European Union. In addition, it is best to avoid self-driving in the major cities like Sofia, Varna, and Bucharest as the traffic is very hectic and jams are a regular occurrence. In the summer months, finding a parking spot in the centers of the large cities can also be a real challenge. Out in the countryside, road signs are often only in the local alphabet, which in Bulgaria means it is in Cyrillic. In the remote rural areas, one must also add the “bonus” of encountering slow-moving farm animals and horse- and donkey-drawn carts.

Undoubtedly, discovering the hidden historic and cultural charms of these countries’ remote villages, monasteries, and national parks is best done by car and quite often this is also the only option. While the central parts of the large cities are generally best explored on foot, considering using a professional driver and guide when touring the countryside is highly recommended as the added value of their local knowledge and experience will save you time and undoubtedly offset the cost of their services.

Shopping In Russia!

2008-12-09T13:14:00.001-05:00

I just got back from 3 weeks of extensive traveling in Eastern Europe & Russia. To be honest, one of my favorite things in the world is shopping, so it was party time for me when I went to the Izmailovsky bazaar in Moscow. (Although I had to limit the size of my purchases or my luggage would explode – which it would have, if it wasn’t for Jade bringing back some of my stuff and Kevan with his super-handy extra duffle bag!)

The stands at Izmailovsky only take cash - but they take rubles, dollars and euros. Most of them speak some English, Spanish, Chinese and quite a few more languages that I did not even understand; just enough to make the sale. And they really want the business, so usually you can bargain with them. A general rule is that you can get the item for up to 30% lower than the asking price – the more you buy, the better the deal.

Well, I had been looking to buy a Faberge egg. You will see SO many of them in Russia – but if you see one you really like, buy it right away, because you will not find the same one again. I had seen so many beautiful eggs, but so far, none of them had sparked my eye enough to buy it. As I was strolling with Kevan, I saw a golden one that I just HAD to have - but it was bargain time, so I tried not to show my degree of interest. As I was looking at it, I also see another one that I like a lot. So I knew that my chances of getting a better price just doubled!

I looked at them for a while, and then I asked the man the price. He tells me each is $1500 rubles (roughly $60 dollars). I nod, hold them a little longer to show I’m considering, say thank you, and start walking away. After 3 steps, he yells that he will sell me both for $2500 rubles (about $100 dollars). I said I would think about it and walked away.

So we went around for a few minutes, and then returned. I told him I really liked the eggs, but I only had $80 dollars. He says he cannot sell them for that price or he will make no money, and asks me for $100 dollars. “But I only have $80 left”, I say.

I notice he really wants the sale as he asks me if I have any rubles left; I say I have 100 (about $4 dollars). He then offers me the eggs for $80 dollars and 500 rubles. I stick to my guns: “But I just don’t have that!”

So once again, I thank him and say I cannot buy them. But even before I could turn around to walk away: “Ok, ok, $80 dollars and 100 rubles.”

And the eggs were mine.

Vienna's Wine Culture

2008-12-05T16:18:00.003-05:00

Recently, I had the good luck to be in Vienna during harvest season and was lucky enough to be able to eat in a local Heuriger. Think of a German beer-garden and replace the “beer” with “wine” and you have a Heuriger restaurant. Most of these small local restuarants are located just outside the city center, usually 20 minutes or so by taxi from the central area. Believe me – it’s worth the cost. The restaurants are all extremely casual with communal seating. Generally, you order at a counter (all the food for the night is on display), then the food is made to order for you and brought to your table.

If there is a branch of pine needles above the doorway as you enter, young, just harvested wine is available and is worth a try. At Heiuriger Welser , we enjoyed a delicious dinner of lightly fried fresh garden vegetables, delicious local salads, and a smorgasboard of fried chicken, succulent tender ham, roast pork, sausages and more. Desserts were a selection of homemade strudels. Two local musicians entertained the room and serenaded our group with a rendition of “Edelweiss” from The Sound of Music. Our entire table joined in with singing, much to the amusement of the locals! This is the perfect place to meet local residents, enjoy simple fresh food and have a glass of young wine.

Arts and Carps in Prague!

2008-12-02T13:45:00.001-05:00

My hometown’s Christmas Markets have just been listed among the 12 top markets in Europe by Travel & Leisure. It’s well deserved. No matter what your religion is, if you travel to Prague in the winter, you will enjoy browsing through the stalls filled with gifts: colorful hats, puppets, wooden toys, Christmas decorations, and much more. You will love sipping the hot spiced wine and listening to Christmas carols.

I just feel obligated to warn you about one bizarre thing regarding Christmas in Prague: the carps. In late December just before Christmas, not only at the markets, but also on almost every street corner, you will find large cisterns teeming with carps. In the US, this fresh water species is considered rather a filthy inedible bottom feeder. Not so in the Czech Republic; here it is a once-a-year delicacy that can be prepared in many different ways – in wine, with stuffing or breaded and fried. It is a question of tradition to have a great carp on your Christmas table and people stand in long lines to secure one. If you travel with kids, you should know that while it is exciting to watch the fish swimming around, you may want to protect your child from witnessing the final stages of the carp’s life – the merciless blow of the butcher’s mallet and the not so pretty gutting. The more fortunate of carps though are bought alive, kept home in the bathtubs for children to watch and learn before the family takes the carp to the river and releases him hoping that the waters of Vltava are clean enough for the fish to survive. Or, well… why should I lie to you… after the children develop a natural attachment towards the innocent creature, it is up to the father to play the butcher and kill it at home. If you make friends while you travel to Prague, ask for carp stories. Children and fathers alike will have plenty. And do try the carp. It’s delicious.

Bergen- The Gem of Norway...

2008-11-25T18:12:00.000-05:00

In September, I had the pleasure of traveling to Norway and visiting the quaint city of Bergen. This Unesco town still retains much of its charm. The old wharf area, known as Bryggen, showcases many of the original timber warehouses. Unfortunately, these monuments to history are slowly disappearing as they are all wood and susceptible to fires. As a matter of fact, while I was there, one of the old timber buildings a few blocks off the wharf caught fire and the plumes of smoke could be seen for miles.

The city itself, is easily walkable from the wharf to the art museums to the fish market. The fish market is a great place to wander around. Test your taste buds by tasting the wild and farm raised salmon, and see if you can taste the difference. Here is a great place also to stock up on unusual foods such as reindeer or moose sausage. The mustard with dill sauce is not be missed.

While in Bergen, I checked out the Clarion Hotel Havnekontoret-not be confused with the Clarion Admiral hotel. This hotel is not what I expected from the name Clarion. The hotel is only 2 years old and is built in the former harbor masters building.

The lobby is very chic with lots of chandeliers and velvet and purple touches (but not too over the top, it didn’t look like Prince lived there!). They maintained the original concave ceiling entryway with its beautiful murals. Guests can take the original stone stairs to the tower for great views of the harbor. The rooms all feature dark hard wood floors, leather headboards, flat screen TV's and L’ Occitane bath products. Some rooms have harbor views.

A love confession for a little museum in Prague.

2008-11-21T17:37:00.001-05:00

I went to Prague this last month on one of the regular yearly visits to my hometown. It is always hectic to try and see all my relatives and friends, to indulge in all the home-made delicacies that my grandmas prepare just for me and to catch up on what is new in town. This time it seemed that there is a lot of construction going on. Shiny new malls take over the beautiful historic landmarks like the functionalist building of the Czech Commercial Bank or the complex of barracks and stables from the eighteenth century on the Republic Square. This made me worried about one of my favorite little museums in Prague, the Cubist House of the Black Madonna.

I rushed through the Celetna Street to see if it’s still there. Oh well, the bookstore that used to be on the ground floor was replaced by a clothing store, but at least the Museum is still open and as far as I can tell, it is not going anywhere. Foreigners usually stop in front of this intriguing building designed by the genius functionalist and cubist architect Josef Gočár, but never venture in. Big mistake!

The permanent exhibition here is devoted to the art of the first half of the twentieth century and to Czech cubism in particular. Not many people know this but Cubism had huge influence on Czech artists, including architects – there are several Cubist buildings in Prague. The exhibition is modest as far as quantity but of such high quality that I could spend hours staring at the sculptures, paintings or even furniture by Josef Gočár, Otto Gutfreund, Josef Čapek (brother of the writer Karel), Václav Špála or Jan Zrzavý just to name a few. I love everything about this period of Czech art, it was blunt, uninhibited, intelligent and fun and, to put it simply, beautiful. If you have time in Prague, do not miss getting to know it!

Russian or Latina?

2008-11-18T17:16:00.001-05:00

Recently I had the opportunity of visiting Russia for the first time. I come from the Caribbean where our European next of kin come from “La Madre Patria” (Spain) and our vision of Europe ended just around Germany. I was a child during the Cold War, so we were educated in the perception that Russia was a “foreign” land very, very far away. As I grew up, we heard stories about the opening of countries in Eastern Europe and the fall of the Russian Empire on the news. All this felt very distant for they didn’t relate to my scope of the world.

Then, I found myself on a flight to Moscow on a familiarization trip. I had no idea what to expect. I had read a lot about St. Petersburg and Moscow but nothing I read was like what I actually found and experienced.

We arrived in Moscow and took a connecting flight to St. Petersburg. This required taking a ride from the International airport to the Domestic airport in the morning traffic and under heavy snow. First thing that shocked me as very familiar was the large crowd of people in front of the arrival door fighting for the attention of the arriving passengers. Taxi??? Need Taxi??? Come with meee, not heem!!! I wondered, am I in Russia or did they take me to a Latin American country? This felt just like arriving in any airport in Mexico or in Central or South America (except for the cold and the fur hats!!!).

We arrived in the Domestic terminal for our connecting flight and another familiar sight, people traveling with HUGE bags, boxes and suitcases. They were all covered in triple layers of transparent Saran wrap and everyone was checking their bags with no prior thought of excess baggage limitations. (Is it possible that Latino’s have Russian ancestors?) While we waited in line to check our baggage, I started people watching. You could see what a variety of ethnicity's co-exist in this country. Some people had Mongolian features, others looked very Nordic and others were very exotic, with dark hair and very light eyes.

While I was in the line waiting to check my baggage, I was checking out their outfits, their hairdos, their bags and shoes and when it was my turn, I noticed the Russian airline employees in the counter had very long fingernails decorated with colorful decals and VERY bright nail polish. The Russian ladies just love to wear very high heels and love to carry large handbags with big buckles and shiny accents. Each of them wear very bright colors, tight sexy clothes and amazing fur coats. Most of the younger women wear heavy makeup, dark eyeliner and exotic hairdos and they just love to wear really big and fancy jewelry. What a difference from how I saw the Russians in the movies!! These ladies looked just like Latinas but in a lighter shade of skin tone!

For a Latina on her first trip to Russia, I have to say, I felt totally impressed and am looking forward to returning sometime soon. The Russians and us must share a common ancestor someplace….

Where is the "Excuse Me"?

2008-11-14T14:24:00.002-05:00

I am your typical American and everyone who knows me will agree with that 100%. I drive a gigantic SUV, watch Sunday football (American football!) and most of all love that I can buy all my groceries at one place- my gigantic Publix! This is not to say that when I travel, I do not indulge in some different activities, such as visiting the local market. For those of you that have not traveled outside the US borders, you are really missing out.

In nearly every foreign city, especially those in Europe, you can find a local market (typically in the town square) that sells everything from fruit to shoes. I was just in Croatia last week and we decided to visit the fruit and yummy cheese market in Split (they sell sheep cheese that is to die for). Before I go on, I want to tell you that the market is beautiful, the fruit is ripe and delicious and the shoes are Nine West- this is really a must see!

So, we entered the market, thinking this would be a leisurely stroll- boy were we wrong. One of my first encounters with a local lead to a smush and grind into my foot (OUCH!). The people shopping here mean business! The market is an everyday occurrence for the locals and just as we lose our patience and get annoyed with lines and crowds at our stores, so do they.

This beautiful novelty, so I thought, turned out to be a survival of the fittest. I was run into, stepped on and repeatedly pushed out of the way for I was only walking (not sprinting through the market). I was starting to think I took on some sort of super power that made me invisible (boy would my nephew think I was the coolest person ever). Since I am a pretty laid back person, I have to tell you that I thought this was all pretty amusing- in a painful kind of way. The day ended and fortunately I did not have to visit the Croatian hospital so all in all, it was a fun and interesting (to say the least) experience.

Do not let this deter you from the markets, they are great. I just want you to go prepared and warn you to bring your closed toed shoes and some heavy duty shoulder pads, you will need them.

Travel and Hair

2008-11-11T14:22:00.001-05:00

I’m sure many of you, like myself, have been blessed with unruly, time consuming hair. Whether I straighten my hair or curl it, it takes at least 20-30 minutes and requires some heavy artillery such as a blow dryer, ceramic straightener, and/or curling iron. When I first started traveling overseas I had a lot of questions relating to hair and travel such as - are the blow dryers powerful enough to dry my thick mane and will my $200 straightener work in Eastern Europe and Russia if using a converter? I now have the answers to those questions and would like to enlighten all of you.

All five star hotels in Eastern Europe and Russia have blow dryers in the room or upon request at the reception desk. Whether they are powerful enough is really hit or miss as I have had both wimpy dryers and supersonic dryers. For guaranteed satisfaction, I recommend purchasing a small, but powerful dryer to take along just in case. If drying isn’t your biggest worry, stick with the hotel dryers.

Straightening can be a problem. Even with a converter, the standard European voltage is very powerful and can be damaging to your straightener. My colleagues and I have learned this the hard way having blown out two $200 straighteners and almost setting fire to a hotel room (hotel to be left unnamed). I recommend leaving your really expensive tools at home and purchasing a suitable, but less expensive model that wouldn’t leave you heartbroken if it died. Folica even sells dual voltage straighteners, which can handle the high voltage better.

My last and most important piece of advice is to always prepare for the worst. Bring hair ties, clips, and even a hat just in case you find yourself without any hair styling provisions. Being able to style our hair properly while traveling overseas is the goal - being able to look good when all equipment fails is priceless.

Nimb and the best chocolate ever!

2008-11-07T08:59:00.002-05:00

On a recent trip to Copenhagen I had the opportunity (and the great pleasure) to visit Nimb. Nimb is more than just a hotel - it is a concept. Having heard of this new “creation” I was actually quite surprised when we walked up to a double glass door that leads directly from the sidewalk into a small, quietly elegant reception area. There is no grand portico, driveway or even an area to pull into and the Nimb, from the street, appears to have little to draw you in.

Once inside all this changes. The reception area is simply a bellman’s like desk to one side and a huge arrangement of absolutely gorgeous flowers on a glass table in the middle of the floor.

Nimb is rather like a large estate manor, with the feel of a home and gourmands are well catered for. Apart from the Nimb Restaurant there is a Vinotek – a brickwork, basement level, wine cellar that allows guests to sit at long wooden tables and sample even the best of vintage wines by the glass accompanied by light snacks and cheeses.

Nimb also features a deli where they sell products from their own dairy. But for me the biggest attraction in the deli was the Summerbird Chocolates. I was treated to one of these on a welcome plate of chocolates and when I put that chocolate in my mouth I thought I had gone to heaven. They don’t come cheap and the best are sold the old fashioned way – individually and boxed on the spot. This means they wouldn’t last the eight days before my return to the United States and therefore my friends and colleagues only have my word for it but trust me, these chocolates are simply divine!

Opening onto the street they also have their own hot-dog stand (the surprises never end) where they serve gourmet hand-made sausages on freshly baked bread. This is known as The Grill since, after all, it is so much more than a hot dog stand but is simple and very affordable. Accompany this with the organic chocolate milk produced in the dairy – what a treat!

But the gourmet coup de grace is Restaurant Herman where executive chef Thomas Herman (a native Dane) casts his spell over his pots and ovens and creates some of the most wonderful dishes ever to grace a plate. As per the hotel, his philosophy is that eating should be a recollection whereby “everything we eat should remind us of something or someone and allows us to stay connected to the world”. With Thomas in the kitchen, guests’ recollection goes into overdrive!

When the owners closed the property and decided on a refurbishment from head to toe they wanted to achieve one look – Quality – and they have succeeded in a big way. Even if you don’t stay here you should visit one of the restaurants. Restaurant Herman doesn’t come cheap and a full quality gourmet experience will run you about $400.00 per person. Lesser options are possible and Restaurant Nimb has an ever-changing menu that is quite affordable. At the Vinotek you can sip on a glass of wine and imagine you are in a winery in France but whatever you do, don’t miss out on one of those chocolates in the deli – I guarantee you won’t be able to stop at just one.

An Opera about Ice Hockey – Only in Prague!

2008-11-04T12:54:00.001-05:00

See it in January and February at the Estates Theater

The people of Prague take great pride in the fact that Mozart felt so good in their city that he said: “My Praguers understand me.” They love music and relish in the claim that every Czech is a musician. I am the exception to this rule, although I do love music. I also love surprises and crazy ideas. A famous Czech musician, Martin Smolka, and a popular actor and screenwriter, Jaroslav Dusek, came up with such an idea a few years ago. They created a unique opera inspired by the victory of the Czech Ice-Hockey Team at the Winter Olympics in Nagano.
An opera about ice hockey! It is an outlandish idea, right? But if you think about it, operas tell a love story, celebrate heroes, and culminate in a tragedy or victory and, for Czechs, Nagano was exactly that; a love story of mythical proportions – almost a century long obsession with hockey. A Czech hero of the 20th century – the genius goalkeeper Dominik Hasek whom some wanted as the next Czech president is the opera’s hero, defending his goal with a powerful counter-tenor. And finally a victory that was celebrated by thousands of fans crowding the Old Town Square and boosted national pride that is usually nonexistent among my countrymen.
The Opera Nagano (in three periods and overtime) premiered at The Estates Theater in 2004 and is now coming back to mark the 10th Anniversary of that epic victory in 1998. If you travel to Prague in January or February, you should not miss it. It will not only give you an insight into the psyche of those gloomy looking Czechs, but will surprise you with beautiful music, unexpected stage setting and costumes and especially, the great sense of humor.

On the Rocks!

2008-10-31T17:05:00.000-04:00

The Torne River runs along the border of Sweden and Finland and is the location of the annual novelty, the Ice Hotel. But you don’t have to travel to Sweden in the dead of winter to experience the crystal clear ice that this river produces. Year round the sparkling clear ice formed by the waters of the Torne are on display at the Ice Bar in the Nordic Sea Hotel in Stockholm.

Sponsored by Absolut Vodka, the Ice bar gives a whole new meaning to “on the rocks”. Hollowed out cubes of ice serve as the vessels for a variety of flavored vodkas and eliminate the need for traditional ice cubes. These ready to serve glasses of ice are stacked on “glass clear” ice shelves behind a full size bar completely constructed of ice and surrounded by walls, and tables all made of ice.

No bar stools to stick to! Don’t worry – an arctic style parka prevents frostbite and woolen knit gloves keep you toasty and warm throughout the experience. Of course you can remove a glove and tempt the ice glass to stick to your fingers or leave the imprint of your hand on the wall for posterity but most visitors find it hard to leave their hand against the glistening ice for long enough to melt an impression. The bar provides a party like atmosphere with club lighting and music that ranges from Abba (of course) to some of Sweden’s more modern pop stars.

The bar menu consists of both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. Vodka straight is favored by many but it can also be mixed with a variety of fruit drinks to create a fun cocktail. In between sips of the throat warming vodka the vast majority of guests spend their time taking photographs of themselves and their friends.

The crowd is incredibly international – the night we were there the 60 or so people (maximum allowed in at one time) consisted of Australians, Japanese, Chinese, Americans, Argentineans and almost every European country all giggling and laughing at this novel phenom that will be a highlight of any visit to Stockholm. Despite the provision of warm upper clothing, your shoes are yours and at 23 degrees Fahrenheit flimsy soles will soon have you beating a retreat for the exit!

The Amber Room- then and now.

2008-10-21T16:05:00.003-04:00

I stood in the center of The Amber Room in the Catherine Palace of Tsarskoye Selo near St. Petersburg, Russia – admiring the beautiful reconstruction of the room, which was rededicated in 2003. The Amber Room is constructed entirely of amber panels - from ceiling to floor. The effect is singular and spectacular. The Nazis looted the original Amber room during WWII and the whereabouts of its contents still remains a mystery.

While standing in that room on August 7, 2008, I took a piece of paper out of my back pocket. The paper was a copy of notes my grandmother wrote on her cruise ship stationary from the M/S Pilsudski on August 15, 1936. My grandmother stood in the same room almost 72 years, to the day, earlier. My grandmother of course saw the original room.

Both sides of my family come from Russia. 2008 marked the 100-year anniversary of my mother’s side of the family emigrating from Russia to America, so on this recent trip I was able to enjoy a double dose of historical connection to this fascinating country. What a treat!

Austrian Airlines

2008-10-17T17:45:00.002-04:00

I just had the opportunity to fly Austrian Airlines’ new business class from JFK to Vienna. Normally, I never notice the uniforms of the flight attendants. However, Austrian’s are in unrelieved red – red jacket, red vest, red shirt, etc. This carries on right to their red shoes and stockings. All this red is accented by a robin’s egg blue scarf. A very interesting outfit… 

 The new seats are quite comfortable and lie flat at the push of one button, allowing for a very comfortable night’s sleep. Food in business class is some of the best I’ve had and is catered by DO & CO International. A chef travels on board with you to see to your every food whim. The selection of wine and drinks was also extensive.

All in all, my flying experience was very pleasant I urge you to try the new Austrian!

Belarusian Entrepreneurship

2008-10-14T10:10:00.000-04:00

Before our trip to Poland, my colleague Gwen and I decided that it would be a good idea to also visit the neighboring Belarus. The most efficient way to get there was crossing the border near Bialystok and spending a day in Grodno, a city that used to be home to a thriving Jewish community and an important political and cultural center of the Polish- Lithuanian Commonwealth. Today, it is a sleepy town that will surprise you by its cleanliness and order, undoubtedly resulting from the tight political control of the Belarusian (read Russian) government.

I could tell you about the day we spent there, and it was an interesting and emotional one – from the stern border control, to our visit to the only preserved Synagogue and the unmarked mass grave of Grodno’s 20,000 Jews killed by the Nazis, to my heated political debate with our Pro-Putin driver and Anti-Putin guide, to the delicious herring I mixed for myself at a great local restaurant.

Instead, I will tell you about our train ride back to Bialystok.

At the train station, as we were approaching the narrow door of the passport control, we could sense our journey back to Poland would be far from dull. Equipped with black tape, several young Belarusians were engaging in the most bizarre activity: taping together packets of cigarettes into thin, almost 5 feet long stripes and carrying them through the passport control under the disinterested noses of the Belarusian officers. When asked what this is all about, our guide, a Professor at the Grodno University, smiled mysteriously: You will see. And so we did.

During the first forty five minutes of our train ride before the border, an incredibly well organized commando of about 15 young men and women equipped with screwdrivers essentially took apart the train carriage, unscrewing every plywood board on the walls, every lamp and every tube and pushed tons and tons of cigarette packs into every hole, cavity and nook possible. As we watched in astonishment, one of the girls asked us, very politely, to move so that she could make use of our seats.

At the border, the nicotine traffickers metamorphosed into innocent looking travelers and nonchalantly opened their bags for the Polish border officers to check for any illegal content (such as a large amount of cheap Belarusian cigarettes). During the hour long wait at the border, everybody had to leave the train and the Polish officers went through every wagon. As I watched them bringing out only two bags of seized cigarettes, I had to wonder if this was just a symbolic act on their part.

We got back on the train, the smugglers drew their screwdrivers and methodically retrieved their cargo. It was an efficient and smooth operation, but it seemed like way too much effort just to sell cigarettes. I had to ask, how much is in this for you? The answer was: $150.

Scrounging up Every Last Euro!

2008-09-24T17:00:00.002-04:00

This past July I was lucky enough to travel through Eastern Europe with my fun and at times, wild colleagues, Leigh and Kevan. After some time in Vienna, we decided to take a train to Budapest. Since I had never been on a high-speed train, I was quite eager to begin the journey. What an experience—easy, smooth and surprise, surprise, super quick!

Once the train departed the station, we decided to try the food in the dining car (I know, I know we are quite adventurous). One thing to note is that the train does not accept credit cards or US dollars on board- only Euros and Forints. Who doesn’t accept credit cards? Unfortunately, Leigh and I did not have any euros but we were lucky to have our savvy traveler Kevan with us. Kevan had exchanged some money for euros but with the exchange rates being where they are now he did not get much!

Now imagine, three Americans sitting there staring at the menu just hoping that we had enough euros to pay for everyone. After ordering and receiving the bill, we realized that we could pay the whole bill and then some. Needless to say the “then some” was another round of drinks for each of us!

Upon arrival in Budapest, we were greeted by our driver and taken to the amazing Four Seasons Gresham Palace. What a hotel!

The staff is top notch, the service is impeccable and the view from our room was exquisite. There is nothing like opening up your curtains and looking out onto the Danube River. Our time to get to Budapest was great and the time spent there was even better. Each of us cannot wait to go back!

What Day is it Today?

2008-09-15T12:02:00.000-04:00

As the Director of Special Projects at Exeter International I get to be part of some pretty interesting travel projects. This most recent one was one of my favorites. I traveled with Greg Tepper, President of Exeter International and the famous travel photographer, Rob Howard , Rob’s wife Lisa and a couple of friends. The purpose of the trip was to get some beautiful photographs to adorn the pages of this year’s brochure. Rob did not disappoint and people will be impressed with the images he captured along the way.

We traveled to St. Petersburg, Riga, Warsaw, Krakow, Vienna and Bratislava. If it sounds exhausting – it was. It was also exciting and exhilarating.

In St. Petersburg we stayed at the very luxurious Taleon Imperial Hotel, A Leading Hotels of the World property. Every luxury hotel has its charms and extravagances that make it particularly memorable. My travel companions raved about the charming rooms, the perfect central location, the beautiful blue marble of the lobby floor, and the view of Kazan Cathedral from the restaurant as we enjoyed our lavish breakfasts each morning. I spotted something else that made my stay very memorable – something so subtle but yet so very important to travel weary guests.

At midnight each evening – a hotel staff member changes the carpets in the elevators. The beautiful blue and gold carpets have the day of the week woven into them. I’m serious. Isn’t that the definition of a luxury touch in a hotel – when you say to yourself – I would love to have a view like this, a shower like this, a comforter like this etc? Well – I couldn’t help but think - I want someone to change my welcome mats at home, with the day of the week woven into them, each day, so I don’t forget what day it is. I”ll check and see if they have them at Lowe’s this weekend – I suspect I will have to continue to rely on my calendar.

Are You Ready for Romania?

2008-08-21T15:09:00.001-04:00

After every visit to Romania, I cannot help noticing how quickly the country is changing from an obscure Balkan territory ruled by ruthless tyrants like Vlad Tepes and Nicolae Ceausescu into a popular destination famous for its magnificent architectural monuments, authentic local culture, and friendly and welcoming people. Despite the fact that most visitors come to Romania to see the sights associated (sometimes wrongly) with Count Dracula, the country has so much more to offer, so the sooner one gets over the ‘vampire country’ pop-culture stereotype, the more rewarding and enriching their experience will be.

As is the case with traveling to most ex-Communist countries, arriving and staying with an open mind is absolutely essential. Ever since it joined the European Union in January 2007, the Romanian infrastructure has been getting a much-needed face lift, but many of the remote (and most charming) regions like Maramures and Southern Bucovina are only accessible via local roads which are still in bad condition. Currently, even in the capital city of Bucharest, many of the buildings in the city center are undergoing dramatic restoration and some streets are closed for renovation as well.

Being a discerning and broad-minded traveler in Romania also means that your daily travel plans should be fairly flexible. Just because a guidebook or a website (or even your local guide) says that a certain small church or village museum is open from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, this might not be the case when you arrive there. Do not let the handwritten (in Romanian) ‘out for lunch’ sign on the front door spoil your entire day, but rather accept it as part of the cultural experience and either move on or come back later.

Maybe you wanted to roam the ruins of the Poienari Castle – one of the few fortresses historically linked to Vlad Dracula, just to find out that the only way to reach it is by climbing some 1,500 steps uphill. Settle for a drive-by and continue your exploration of Transylvania, where many more medieval ruins and fortified churches are waiting to be discovered.

With open minds and a little flexibility, travelers can grasp the spirit and raw charm of an emerging Romania, which is an experience unlike those of the polished tourist areas of western Europe.

Monasteries of Armenia

2008-07-01T16:57:00.001-04:00

It is outside the capital city of Yerevan, that Armenia truly beckons the traveler. There are monasteries; LOTS of monasteries and after three days you will hope to never see another monastery for a very, very long time.

Each is unique and beautiful and each has a story to tell. Some of the monasteries sell locally produced honey, which is absolutely delicious. The big decision is whether you take the risk of having it leak into your suitcase so that Aunt Mary can have a taste or simply eating it all during your stay. I ate it all!

A couple of hours north is Noravank – one of the most peaceful and stunningly located monasteries I have ever seen. If you are lucky, the local priest might be on site and if you are even luckier he might sing for you. His voice fills the small church and resonates from the smoke-blackened walls – this is the stuff goosebumps are made of!

Other sites not to be missed around Yerevan are the Gerhard Cave Monastery and the Temple of Garni. We were given a private concert by a quintet (more goosebumps) and the history accorded to these sites is truly fascinating.

Armenia shares its northern border with the Republic of Georgia making for an ideal opportunity to pair these two countries in the same trip.

Coffee in Lviv

2008-06-19T11:26:00.001-04:00

“East is East, and West is West, and never the twain shall meet”
- Rudyard Kipling

Was Kipling thinking about the Ukraine when he wrote this? Even the name of the country, Ukraine, if translated means ‘Borderland’. High-end fashion, new, trendy restaurants, and countless museums and cultural attractions have made Kiev the most sought after city of the Ukraine. I agree this is a wonderful city where one will find all the eases and comforts of the western world but when I travel I want to go deeper, go different, don’t you? If you are like me and want a real treat, visit Lviv.

Located just 6 hours from Kiev, you will find a charming city full of character, atmosphere, and above all great coffee. Be sure to take a break from the touring and take a seat in one of those small family style coffeehouses scattered in the historical center and enjoy a cup of Lviv coffee. The Lviv Coffee Factory opened in 1971 and has since been pouring the “good stuff” to all those that visit.

During my visits to Lviv I always make time to enjoy my good ole' “Cup of Joe”- black, no cream! I also order one (only to start, of course) of the tarts that are always staring at me with their enticing eyes and come hither smell. They always look so lonely on their shelf under the register so being the nice guy that I am, I always rescue 1 (alright you got me- 2). At times, I stop to think about my waistline but come on, indulging is so much more fun and adventurous!

After your mid-morning snack, go out and explore this beautiful city with a visit to Ploshcha Rynok (market square), the Dominican Roman Catholic Church and the Galician Seym (Parliament). After your discovery mission has ended, find a nice café and enjoy a leisurely and relaxed lunch. One tip of advice for your lunch – order the borscht! This may be your only chance in life to enjoy an authentic (and delicious) bowl of borscht and be sure to ask for extra sour cream.

Lviv will enchant you, go be enchanted...

Dining in Moscow

2008-05-19T08:49:00.002-04:00

I recently visited Moscow and had the opportunity to check out the city’s current hip and happening places. Where to see and be seen in Moscow is constantly changing and what was hot last month may be cold this month.

This month, I recommend trying the sushi at the uber trendy Nadalny Vostok (Not that Far East) Restaurant. Not that I don’t love Pelmeni and Borscht, but the sushi was fantastic and such a refreshing change from traditional Russian food. My colleague had steak and loved it, while another in our group ordered pasta. The menu is vast and a little expensive, but isn’t everything in Moscow?

After sushi, head over to the Ritz Carlton’s rooftop 0₂ Lounge for cocktails. While sipping your gin and tonic or Russian pivo (beer), you can enjoy panoramic views over Red Square and the Kremlin. I walked into the lounge and I thought I had stepped onto another planet. The spherical chairs lining the windows and the white leather couches create an “out of this world” ambience. Check it out under dining.

If you’re not into the five-star hotel lounge scene, go to Simachev Bar. This is designer Denis Simachev’s latest venture and you can walk to it from anywhere in the center of the city. I won’t ruin it by giving too many details, but let’s just say that the controversial décor and unique furnishings are a must-see. I had a very tasty berry mojito and was pleased to see that they have a full menu of light fare including salads and pizzas at very reasonable prices. The music was fun and the people were friendly and casual.

Thriving Tbilisi

2008-04-29T10:53:00.003-04:00

Last month I went to Tbilisi, Georgia, where I hadn’t been in a long time…and things have changed! Tbilisi is now a thriving capital city (not the sleepy town of 1990) conveniently located within driving distance of most of the top historic sites of the country. The past few years have brought several luxury, Western-managed hotels, so travelers have many options now- not inexpensive (expect to pay approx. $250 to $350 per night at the better hotels), but the comfort offered will be exactly what more demanding travelers expect. The Marriott Tbilisi (where I stayed) is a former grand dame hotel in the center of the city, recently restored to its former glory. The Marriott will be the place to stay until a raft of new, luxury hotels open in the next few years: Inter-Continental, Park Hyatt and Kempinski (in the former House of Communists!).

The historic sites are what make Georgia so fascinating. The monasteries to the north (dating to the 13th century) are stunning in their mountainous setting. Stalin’s birthplace (Gori) is unforgettable- my guide in the Stalin Museum was clearly still enamored with the fallen Soviet leader (even though most Georgians no longer admire Stalin). The town of Gori is seemingly frozen in time and you can easily feel that it is 1960 and the Soviet Union is entering its prime.

Shopping for antiques (I found a 150-year old Persian carpet for a steal) is unforgettable in Tbilisi. The Old Town hasn’t changed in at least 100 years and all visitors will want to take at least a full afternoon to stroll the streets (and shop).

For me, one of the great highlights of going to Georgia is the food: simply the best vegetables, fresh chicken, nut sauces and khachapuri (soft cheesy bread- a sort of cheese-filled pizza without the toppings- ) I have ever found (and I travel a lot!). Since Georgia dropped its visa requirement for many countries, including the US, now is the time to go.